
im going to be running a gt2871r turbo on my engine at 20psi am i better using a external wastegate over a stock setup im having a custom manifold
made so the fitting of it would not be an issue
im still learing alot about f/i so any help would be great
thans
no idea im afraid but external's look the nuts 
i have to ask, how much power are you planning to be making?
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
no idea im afraid but external's look the nuts![]()
i have to ask, how much power are you planning to be making?
to make 250bhp on my engine its about 10-12psi on a std t28 turbo and with that amount of boost on that turbo you should be up to 360-380bhp.
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
to make 250bhp on my engine its about 10-12psi on a std t28 turbo and with that amount of boost on that turbo you should be up to 360-380bhp.
it all depends on the type of engine you have, what your turbo has, ie, internal wastegate, if so, what size is it. They can be ported to flow
more. If your spec is fairly common you should be able to find out what others have done. I would say dont fit an external unless you have to as its
extra weight, complication and plumbing.
I ran an internal on my To4E as it had one but i couldnt control boost so i welded it shut and fitted a 60mm external (which is huge) and a little too
big for my E but im just about to fit a TO4Z so i was kinda planning ahead.
It's a 1600 sigma zetec engine, there went any examples really that have been turbo properly
I am buying a new gt2871r and have the choice of internal or external from the turbo spec
Running 20psi is going to give you well over 300bhp on a Nissan motor and unless you spend lots of money on internals also going to give you
reliability issues and possibly require a larger intercooler and radiator than you can comfortably fit in a Locost. All this will impact on overall
weight as well that will impact on handling. It might also mean race fuel only (not sure what octain is available at commercial pumps but am pretty
sure you will need 102 octane minimum.
Also the right size turbo to properly flow 20psi will give you driveability problems with a light weight car due to lag and other such turbo maladies.
The main reason for a Locost is handling and too much lag will spoil that so think carefully about the spec the builder is recommending.
Also if you are producing close to 400 bhp make sure your drivetrain and chassis can handle it.
Otherwise that sort of power is 

but might actually spoil the fun and driveability of the car.
38mm on mine but on 2000 cc,BUT had the same on my 1.6 vaux engine and worked fine

Thanks for the help guys,
It's not a Nissan unit, it's a ford 1.6 sigma it has a worked crank proper pistons and rods super 1600 head as for the rest of the car in
all fairness it's not a locket build I have a Quaife box plated rear tran x diff I have a big alloy rad and I'm having a custom cooler made
for the car
What power did you 1.6 make west turbo?
20psi doesn't need an external in my opinion, and also I think this would be the case if you asked some engine builders, but having an
external
a) looks good
b) sounds good
c) gives you the option to run mega boost in the future with stable wastegate control
but they usually work out more expensive, and are one more thing to come loose and lose you all your boost (as happened to a Radical SR3 at
Llandow last Sat)
i used external on my hillclimber (1800cc nissan motor) after originally using internal WG. Ext gave better, more accurate boost management making mapping easier, less boost spiking allowing the power curve to be nice and smooth. I used a VAG boost solenoid to control the ext WG from an Audi TT 225hp too (the 180hp looks the same but flows less) thru an Emerald MDK3 ecu
^ what he said
just the cost is the problem
but if i were you ill use the 2560 series for minimum lag.....in my case used the 2876 and its 2 litre engine! on my 1.6 had 260hp at 1.3bar with an
28rs