Std 2.0 ltr Pinto with 32/36 dgav Carb

I struggle to rev more than 4000 rpm, checked plug gaps, ign timing and fuel mixture.

Any clues why I'm struggling and what to check further.

thanks

I had a very similar problem which turned out, in my case, to be a very restricted air filter setup. Removed the air filter and it would rev out.

[Edited on 27/2/11 by karlak]

slipped cam belt?

will it rev when stationary above that figure or is it when your driving, this will point to different reasons

I,m with slipped cam belt, if it goes one way you get a perfect idle but no power or revs.

Non interference engine so no worries

If it has always done this? and you're using the mechanical (standard) fuel pump but with no plastic diamond shaped spacer in between the block and pump flange this causes a very similar issue.

If it has just started doing this, then I'd be inclined to agree with a slipped cam belt.

Cheers

Rich

Check the valve clearances , too tight will cause problems, check for full throttle , restricted fuel and air supply , siezed auto advance mechanism in the distributor which is common on Bosch distributors , can be checked with a decent strobe light and check the coil is the correct type for the ignition system you are using.

Thanks for the replies,

I think I've found the route of the problem, Checked Cam timing - correct, checked igbition timng - correct, checked pump gasket - correct, checked Carb jets - incorrect. The primary and secondary main jets had been changed by the previous owner by fitting oversize jets of 155 & 140. This most likely causing over fueling.
Ordered complete new set of jets as per Haynes manual.

I will check out the Dizzy and the valve clearances as suggested.

As for the Coil how do I determine if I have the correct unit, I believe the circuit is Inductive as its uses a Motocraft 83BB 12A199 B3A module.

Thanks

[Edited on 28/2/11 by sooty]

As for the Coil how do I determine if I have the correct unit for Dizzy, it uses a MotoCraft 83BB 12A199 B3A module.

Should I keep this system or change it to a Points circuit. ?

Thanks

Fitted new jets as per the Haynes Manual for a 32/36 dgav-

Mains - Primary and Secondary 130
Airs - Primary 165
Airs - Sec 120

Ign Timing set 8degs for Super Unleaded

Plugs gaps checked

Valve Timing correct

Now its worse than before, hesitates more applying throttle for power, still struggles to rev over 4K rpm. If I slowly give throttle it will rev up to 5500. But if I give it wellie to fly, it splutters/spits in carb and struggles. But Revs OK stationary.

Cone filter (clean) fitted in front of rad then hose to empty pancake can on top of carb, checked if getting full throttle.

Next is check valve clearances.

How do I know if I have the right type of ignition coil fitted.

If the Jets are incorrect for a 2ltr, from your experience what would you advise.

Thanks

Are there any markings on the coil? Have you checked that the timing is advancing correctly? try advancing the timing by ro9tating the distributor , if the advance mechanism is stuck then the engine will rev higher at the top end but will idle faster

The first thing I would do is replace plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm.

I once had a Granada that did this, it eventually poured enough unburnt fuel into the first silencer box that when it ignited it blew the silencer to bits...

Have you got a lambda bung welded into your exhaust, If you have I can lend you my Jaw AFR meter, you really could do with finding out how rich or lean she's running first just so you can rule that in or out.

Have you tried blanking off the dizzy vac then and just running at 15 degrees static advance? Maybe worth a shout, I know a few that run them this way so can't be too bad.

quote:

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Now its worse than before, hesitates more applying throttle for power, still struggles to rev over 4K rpm. If I slowly give throttle it will rev up to 5500. But if I give it wellie to fly, it splutters/spits in carb and struggles. But Revs OK stationary.

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OK

Checked:-

Ignition Timing
Valve Timing
Carburation etc.
Renewed HT leads
Renewed Plugs
Renewed Dizzy Cap
Wiring connections Module to Coil/Dizzy (all correct, but several joints (but all connections tight) by previous owner)

Managed to check the colour of the spark from the coil, by holding the coil HT lead approx 5mm from earth and turned engine over.

Colour of spark is Orange, which I believe is a weak spark.???????

Also read somewhere, ford use a Ballast resistor either on the coil or have a Ballast wire to the coil, but has no ballast on the coil or not knowing if the feed is ballasted.

Do I need a Ballasted coil by either way or can I use a straight high performance 12v coil. ???????

Any suggestions of which coil I should/could use with my inductive dizzy and 83BB12A199B3A Module setup.

thanks

I may still have my old coil off my pinto set up, I'll take a look tomorrow mate, my donor had that dizzy and amp.

Cheers

Rich

Still think it sounds like its running rich, have you a lambda bung in your exhaust? Are the plugs black and sooty have you tried it using static advance as per my last post?

Cheers

Rich

Something you could also check. I know from experience if you turn the engine over with the dissy cap off, one of the cap retaining clips can drop in and jam the trigger wheel. The trigger wheel turns on the spindle, and when the ignition is timed up, the rotor arm isn't nessesarily adjacent to a plug lead segment in the cap. It could well be running OK untill the vac advance moves the rotor further from the segment.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks Rich

Sorry nothing in the Exhaust for sensor.

Did try smaller jets as in Haynes book of 130 jets primary and secondary, but was worse.

So went back to jets already in carb 155 primary 140 secondary from previous owner.

But as you mentioned rich mixture, the power valve diaphram is faulty with suction test not holding, awaiting new unit.

As for static advance, it makes little effect advancing in 2deg increments to 14 degs with strobe.

thanks

Oh ok, was gonna suggest I lend you my afr meter, cos at the mo we're not sure if if its ign or fuel (or both)

plan b then...

Use a timing strobe light and check it is advancing to 34-36% at 3000rpm-3500rpm
you say it is set at 8% that seems a bit low set it to 10 -12% without the vacuum pipe on if its hard to start the engine back it off a little

What happens if you pull the choke on a small amount will it rev better or [ choke up ]

sounds like fuel problems to me is it getting enough fuel to the carb is the pump working ok
sorry if you know all this
Jacko

Thanks Jacko

Will reset timing as you suggest and check advance at 3.5k.

But the 8deg comes from the Haynes for 97 super unleaded.

No choke flaps etc fitted to try choke as suggested.

thanks

Have you checked the valve clearances yet?

Yeh, I know, it also says that every 4th tankful should be leaded! Give what Jacko says a whirl, I would say a little higher but start low and work up, something in my gut is saying fuel to me though. Either that or wind!

We'll sort it sometime.

Cheers

Rich

OK thanks,

I'll have ago tomorrow, but what about the colour of the spark 'Orange' is that OK. ??

thanks again

I'd be more interested in general colour of the ceramic and electrode area of the plug, is it a nice chocolate brown colour rather that the colour of the spark itself tbh. Is it a nice fat spark though? Just needs to ignite fuel thats all.

Cheers

Rich

quote:

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Originally posted by jacko
Use a timing strobe light and check it is advancing to 34-36% at 3000rpm-3500rpm

Jacko

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quote:

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Originally posted by sooty

quote:

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Originally posted by jacko
Use a timing strobe light and check it is advancing to 34-36% at 3000rpm-3500rpm

Jacko

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Doing this check, is this with the Vac disconnected or connected. ??????

OK I've read 'Dave Andrews' bit about modding the Dizzy and states to check advance without the Vac connected.

But if the springs were too strong or too weak on the mechanical advance.

Where would I get some springs.
thanks

[Edited on 14/3/11 by sooty]

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OK Thanks

Just done a check.

First set the timing to 12degs.

Then using a vernier measured TDC to 10deg then measured in increments across to 30deg.

Ran engine again to 3.5/4K rpm and timing is short of approx 2/3degs, suggesting springs are too strong. I can move the rotor freely against the springs suggesting the mechanical advance plate is free.

Will road test tomorrow for any improvements.

So where can I get weaker springs or any other tips of how to mod dizzy.

Or should I set the advance at 3.5/4K rpm to 36 degs and not worry about the timing at tickover speeds etc.

thanks again.

quote:

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Originally posted by sooty
OK Thank


Or should I set the advance at 3.5/4K rpm to 36 degs and not worry about the timing at tickover speeds etc.

thanks again.

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Hey Jacko, your the man

Set the dizzy to have approx 33deg advance at 3.5/4k rpm and it revs to 5k plus without any splutter or spit back. But the advance at tickover is showing to be approx 15deg and starts OK at this.

Should I leave it at that or modify the Dizzy with weaker springs, but where can I get these springs.

The problem now is that as before it back fires alot on overrun, as said before the main jets fitted by the previous owner is 155 primary and 140 secondary. Again the Haynes says these should be 130 for both chokes.

Any suggestions about the backfire and jets

Thanks