Hi all
I have a 711M crossflow and fitted what i thought was a type 9 gearbox, it turns out to be a type 2 (20 splines 7/8" shaft, integral bellhousing). This leaves some big gaps around the sides although most of the holes line up. Is it possible to fit a plate to cover these gaps or is it best to find a type 9 and do it properly? will the type 2 work? I am assuming I should find a type 9 and a new clutch. So, does anyone have one for sale and a suitable clutch? Anybody want a type 2? Also need a 3 gallon fuel tank in the near future. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks
Joe Hughes

Apologies in advance for shouting: DO NOT USE A TYPE 9 IF YOU'RE GOING RACING IN 750MC LOCOSTS!!! (As per your 'Building' blurb.) Max Lees (#91) will disagree but he's wrong.

You need to keep weight down to as close to the minimum (615kgs including you, fuel, helmet blah blah) as possible. The Type 9 just adds a gear you seldom use and weight. The Type 2 is known as the 'Baby Box' because its the least robust and the lightest. It's generally not thought of as the ultimate Locost racing 'box - the GT spec Type E is, but the Type 2 ratios are pretty good and, like I say, if you are going to struggle with weight the Type 2 might be a good option.

Hi

Not sure why you think that the gaps round the bell housing and engine mounting face would need a change of box. ?
If it is for the Locost championship then any of the boxes will work. The type 2 in basic form will be weak around the tail housing as it does not have the extra rigidity of the GT tail housing. The difference in ratios between the std type 2 and the GT are just 1St gear the GT has a 3.3 ratio where as the std item has a 3.65 ratio.
The only problem with running a type 2 box now is that whether it's a GT or STD there are now no longer any new spares IE bearings syncros selector arms Etc thus meaning it now a case of sourcing V.good second hand ones and rebuilding them into usable items suitable for racing.
The larger type 3 or 4speed type 9 as it is wrongly referred to as sometimes ( 2.0L cortina or 4 speed Sierra) still has all the bits available new, Same goes for the 5 speed type 9 also.

There is a difference in weight between the three boxes the type 2 is the lightest with the type 3 being a further 6KG heavier and the type 9 being a further 5KG on top of that. ( Actual figures not to hand )

The type 9 has been run very successfully by some of the racers and does have some benefit if you know what your doing and select the right ratio IE 4.4 . As demonstrated by Brendan dudley and others in the past. But it will depend on the actual weight of your car driver package and whether you require ballast or not to achieve Minimum weight for the championship.

Any questions regarding the suitability of any of the boxes give me a shout as we have run them all and have the real data to go with whats required to make each one work and be reliable for use in race conditions.

Cheers Matt

Sorry for Butting in but I have choice of a I think is a Type2 and A type 3 Gearbox
Which would be best to fit
Am I correct in that the type 3 is 3" longer than the type 2

How is the best way of finging out if I have a GT box

Hi Matt and Timc
Thanks for the valuable advice. The gaps on the inlet side of the engine just looked wrong, seeing the flywheel etc, but everything fitted ok. If it works then great. I have been struggling to find time on the car and it is a relief to know the type 2 will work ok. Once i can get some track time in then i will worry about weight etc. I need some ability first!!
Thanks again for putting my mind at rest.
Joe

Hi

The GT box had an all alloy tail housing as opposed to the STD item which had a steel tube for the selector rod to run through. This steel tube left the tail housing rather weak.

For general road usage and say up to 100Hp the type 2 will be OK. However if being driven more spiritedly and with more Hp then the type 3 is more suited.

Cheers Matt

Matt knows much better than I but I unless your day-job is a jockey, I can't see the Type 9 making sense for most.