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Timing Disk on a Zetec
blues-core - 29/6/11 at 08:56 AM

I'm fitting an uprated cam on my 1.8 zetec so last night started to take the covers and aux belts off ready to start work then looked at the crank pulley. How do you attach a timing disk to a zetec as the bolt on the crank pulley is recessed into the pulley?
I thought about bout increasing the hole in the timing disk to allow a socket to go through and then sticking the disk to the pulley but this won't leave me with and easy way of setting it a true TDC (have the locking kit but want to be sure that I'm at TDC).

So I need a spacer and longer bolt or am I just missing a simple solution? All the guides that I have ready about timing cams on the zetec just mention attaching a timing disk but don't explain how and I'm unable to find any photos of them installed.

lsdweb - 29/6/11 at 09:35 AM

Blue tack!

procomp - 29/6/11 at 10:05 AM

Hi

The only way you will get a true TDC is with a DTI on the top off the piston.

Cheers Matt

Strontium Dog - 29/6/11 at 10:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi

The only way you will get a true TDC is with a DTI on the top off the piston.

Cheers Matt


You should be able to do this by using an extension bar on your DTI through a plug hole! You need to take a reading at a an equal few degrees before and after TDC and then TDC is in the middle of the two readings as there is a null point of a degree or so at the top of the stroke!

norfolkluego - 29/6/11 at 11:37 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Strontium Dog
quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi

The only way you will get a true TDC is with a DTI on the top off the piston.

Cheers Matt


You should be able to do this by using an extension bar on your DTI through a plug hole! You need to take a reading at a an equal few degrees before and after TDC and then TDC is in the middle of the two readings as there is a null point of a degree or so at the top of the stroke!


I used a chopstick with some writing on it, there again I am pro, you may have to settle for something less sophisticated

mcerd1 - 29/6/11 at 12:13 PM

a spacer and a longer bolt sounds good to me

also draw/paint a DTC mark on the flywheel (and any other postions your going to need again) that way you've got it permanently marked

RichardK - 29/6/11 at 08:26 PM

quote:

I used a chopstick with some writing on it, there again I am pro, you may have to settle for something less sophisticated


I slummed it and used a mcdonalds stirrer, in fact I grab loads to stir paint/mix glue etc!

Cheers

Rich

Strontium Dog - 30/6/11 at 12:41 AM

quote:
Originally posted by RichardK
quote:

I used a chopstick with some writing on it, there again I am pro, you may have to settle for something less sophisticated


I slummed it and used a mcdonalds stirrer, in fact I grab loads to stir paint/mix glue etc!

Cheers

Rich


Now I can see where I've been going wrong, messing about with silly things like dial gauges!

Proper locost solutions that would work though, quality!

mcerd1 - 30/6/11 at 07:49 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Strontium Dog
quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi
The only way you will get a true TDC is with a DTI on the top off the piston.
Cheers Matt

You should be able to do this by using an extension bar on your DTI through a plug hole! You need to take a reading at a an equal few degrees before and after TDC and then TDC is in the middle of the two readings as there is a null point of a degree or so at the top of the stroke!


^^ Like you say you've got to be careful with a DTI to make sure you get the 'true' TDC at the middle of the null point...

some people (normally with access to a lathe) make a stop that screws into the plug hole and sticks out far enough to stop the piston just before TDC, then you turn the engine by hand till it stops and mark the position, then turn the engine the other way till it stops from the other side and mark it - the middle of the two marks is true TDC in much the same way as the other methods above but easier to get right


[Edited on 30/6/2011 by mcerd1]

rusty nuts - 30/6/11 at 06:27 PM

Easy to make a stop using an old spark plug with the ceramic removed by cutting off the shoulder just above the hexagon, remove the side electrode and weld in an old bolt to act as a stop. Cut to length , job done!