If you havent got noid light you can do it the old fashoined way by putting a screwdriver onto the body of the injector put your ear on the other end and listen to it clicking, this or the light will not confirm the spray pattern is ok though.
hi all,
my engine wont start, its a new build but has run before in the car running omex 600 and i have a basemap on the ecu
i have map3000 and a laptop plugged in connected live to the ecu, have fuel to the rail and spark at the plugs but no starting
any ideas what to be looking at next?
thanks for anyhelp
Compression or timing
+1 timing....
Swapped leads over on coil as I got a bang which from experience is due to wires being wrong to coil, it ran for afew seconds
Think have a battery issue anyway as its slow to crank over compression and timing are all good
Check your crank sensor, also if it works similar to megasquirt the engine has to be spinning at 300rpm before the ecu starts the engine, if your battery is not spinning the motor fast enough that may be your issue.
quote:
Originally posted by big-vee-twin
Check your crank sensor, also if it works similar to megasquirt the engine has to be spinning at 300rpm before the ecu starts the engine, if your battery is not spinning the motor fast enough that may be your issue.
Hi, im a noob to the site but not to standalone ecu's
most standalones will still be alive and capable of starting the car down to about 9.5-10v. Battery is easy to try but if that doesnt fix it then
there are a few checks you then need to do.
With map3000 live on your screen check your live readings and see what rpm the ecu is seeing. There will be a set 'running' rpm number in
the map. i.e you tell it what rpm the ecu should think its now not cranking and is running. I usually set these to around 450 rpm but that depends on
the engine.
What you need to check is that if your ecu is seeing the trigger pattern and locking on to it. More often than not, non starting issues with ecu
installs come down to that.
If you can confirm that this is correct then if you can get your hands on a noid light to check for an injector pulse then that would be your next
test. The injectors should all be sharing a common live and the ecu pulses earth to trigger them so also check that you have 12v + at each
injector.
hope this helps
Nice one Tom and welcome. If you plug your Laptop into the ECU and then look at the rev counter you will see if your crank sensor is working i.e it
shows an rpm (after you have sorted your battery). You will see how fast the starter is turning the engine then set the setting correctly as Tom says,
its 300rpm in MS.
If you havent got noid light you can do it the old fashoined way by putting a screwdriver onto the body of the injector put your ear on the other end
and listen to it clicking, this or the light will not confirm the spray pattern is ok though.
quote:
Originally posted by tom@TCS
Hi, im a noob to the site but not to standalone ecu's
most standalones will still be alive and capable of starting the car down to about 9.5-10v. Battery is easy to try but if that doesnt fix it then there are a few checks you then need to do.
With map3000 live on your screen check your live readings and see what rpm the ecu is seeing. There will be a set 'running' rpm number in the map. i.e you tell it what rpm the ecu should think its now not cranking and is running. I usually set these to around 450 rpm but that depends on the engine.
What you need to check is that if your ecu is seeing the trigger pattern and locking on to it. More often than not, non starting issues with ecu installs come down to that.
If you can confirm that this is correct then if you can get your hands on a noid light to check for an injector pulse then that would be your next test. The injectors should all be sharing a common live and the ecu pulses earth to trigger them so also check that you have 12v + at each injector.
hope this helps