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1.8 cvh Valve Stem Seals
mikeb - 8/8/12 at 09:39 AM

I'm going to whip my engine out for the final time (hopefully) before I get my bodywork mounted.

I have a new gasket set and cambelt and plan to change the valve stem seals.

What tools do I need, I've only ever done overhead cams with the standard valve spring compressor, but have a feeling the CVH needs a special tool.

Any tips gratefully received!

richardh - 8/8/12 at 09:48 AM

are you rebuilding fully?

i ask as i'm running same in my autograss car and its on 3 cylinders i think (no compression on 1)

i'd like to get more oomph and looking for ideas how to achieve this locostly

richard

mikeb - 8/8/12 at 09:54 AM

no not planning on doing a full rebuild, it will be junked after IVA, but I though while I have the time I'll clean up the head and put new gaskets and cambelt on it so it doesn't go bang for the couple of months I might be driving it!

[Edited on 8/8/12 by mikeb]

Davegtst - 8/8/12 at 10:29 AM

You can get a cheap tool for the cvh that makes it quite easy. You take the rockers off and bolt the tool down which compresses the valve spring. make sure the piston is at tdc or the valve will drop into the cylinder and you will have to take the head off.

rusty nuts - 8/8/12 at 10:31 AM

No need to take the head off to do the valve stem oil seals using the correct tool, just turn the engine to TDC on the cylinder , release the rocker and fit the tool, tighten slowly until the valve spring is compressed , remove collets , valve spring and seal. To assemble just reverse the process. It's a good idea to put a load of rags in all of the drain holes etc in the head to stop collets frm dropping into the sump and you may need a small spacer under the tool when doing a rear wheel drive engine , not needed when doing a FWD for some reason. Total time around an hour

adithorp - 8/8/12 at 11:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
No need to take the head off to do the valve stem oil seals using the correct tool, just turn the engine to TDC on the cylinder , release the rocker and fit the tool, tighten slowly until the valve spring is compressed , remove collets , valve spring and seal. To assemble just reverse the process. It's a good idea to put a load of rags in all of the drain holes etc in the head to stop collets frm dropping into the sump and you may need a small spacer under the tool when doing a rear wheel drive engine , not needed when doing a FWD for some reason. Total time around an hour


+1 on the rags or it'll take more than an hour to find the flying collets!

Only other thing I'd add is give the spring cap a LIGHT tap on the edge as you start to tighten up the tool to free the collets in the cap.