
Week of issues has been had here, and shows no sign of easing up quickly....
Firstly, had issues fitting my lightened flywheel. Got the high tensile bolts and torqued them up as per Haynes instructions, only to find 4 of the
bolts stretched 1mm+ without hitting the correct torque setting. Went to replace them with a set of ARP's, but because it's a lightened
version with recessed head bolt mountings, no can do. Upon conversation with friendly sales guy, he told me that I was over tightening them (112NM a
la Haynes), an suggested a dab of 30w oil and 65NM. As they're the Ford tuning specialists, took their advice with a pinch of salt, and torqued
to 65 with thread lock - really don't fancy losing the end of my legs if this thing comes loose, and just doesn't seem tight enough..... but
hey.
The. I get the clutch aligning tool out and go to bolt the clutch on, and guess what? Dowels don't line up with the holes in the clutch plate.
For reference purposes only, I'm using a Burton flywheel, and the clutch I have is Quinton Hazell, part no. QKT1615AF. I've checked, and
this is a 220mm wide clutch, 23 spline, suitable for Ford Mondeo (I believe 1800cc).
Can someone confirm that this is definitely the correct clutch for the job in hand?!? I'm not fussed about the rest of the bits (already have
spigot and CCT133 release bearing). But I'm starting to get wound up by the sudden wall of things not going to plan....
Manufacturer who made the flywheel should specify the clutch. Burtons Zetec E 6.8kg flywheel uses a pinto plate and diaphragm for instance.
Bolt threads and under bolt head must be sealed on zetec flywheel or they will leak oil and it will go onto the clutch plate. Bolt length is critical
as there is virtually no room the engine side of the flywheel mounting flange on the crank. I would follow the bolt manufacturers torque settings (as
you do for ARP) not the Haynes which are settings for the Ford sourced bolts.
Burton steel flywheel on mine with Pinto type clutch, actually its off a DOHC Sierra because they were a stronger clutch with the same fittings, all
perfect. Burtons site clearly says their steel flywheel is for a Pinto type clutch.
Have always used standard Ford flywheel bolts, unless you are intending to rev the nuts off the engine they are well up to the job. Used them for 11
years now on 4 flywheel fits and would use the same again. As Dusty says they have to seal and they come with a sealant on to prevent any oil leaking.
Unlike some engines the bolt holes go all the way through. Before fitting new bolts you must clean any old sealant out of the threads, if you
don't they do not torque up correctly. If you don't have the correct tap a simple way is the cut an old bolt along its length and then fit
and remove, any contaminant is collected in the saw cut.
quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
Burton steel flywheel on mine with Pinto type clutch, actually its off a DOHC Sierra because they were a stronger clutch with the same fittings, all perfect. Burtons site clearly says their steel flywheel is for a Pinto type clutch.
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec
but what about the clutch release bearing? CCT133 as I've already got, or different one? Am I best off buying a 3 piece clutch kit for the DOHC Sierra?
Cheers for the assistance though, feeling a bit better about it all now!![]()