
hi rover v8 experts....
I've fabricated a inlet manifold for quad 44IDFs on my 4.6.
Among the question marks is how to plumb the heater/ thermostat.
The waterpump has a small hose conn. on the fat water in pipe (cann this pipe A)and another small hose conn on the back (call this pipe B)
pipe A undoubtedly sucks. Looking at the hardware I'd say pipe B sucks as well, can anyone confirm?
I now have no manifold to heat up so I have a few choices, the easiest of which is to pipe the heater to A and B. But if they both suck that
won't be too clever.
An alternative is to put an extra pipe on the back of the thermostat housing - this will let me drive a heater and pumped circulation for improved
warmup before the stat opens, so I'm quite keen. Any golden nuggets of information would be appreciated!
Cheers
Bob
Bob,
Given that the water pump is a centrifugal device it (hopefully) follows that pipe A does indeed suck water in as does the large pipe onto which is
attached. I'd say, however, that pipe B must be an outlet because it is on the "block" side of the impellor and should therefore be
under pressure from the pump. On my car pipe A feeds a long pipe which passes under my inlet manifold and into the heater matrix. The return from the
heater matrix then goes into the back of the manifold. Pipe B connects to the front side of the inlet manifold.
If you've made your own manifold, how are you fitting the thermostat? Are you just using the inline variety? I ask because you need to ensure
that you have a thermostat bypass arrangement (which I think the SD1 inlet manifold provides by virtue of the arrangement I described above)
This bypass needs to keep water moving even when the thermostat is closed to avoid hotspots in the engine. It also helps to get rid of airlocks.
Oh, one final thing to mention, my SD1 manifold has an airbleed hose at the very highest point on the manifold (between the SU carb dashpots). This is
a very small bore (approx 6mm inside dia.) pipe which I think normally connects to the expansion bottle or the top of the radiator.
I hope this helps. If not then let me know and I'll dig out my SD1 manual and/or take some photo's of my setup for you.
Cheers,
Craig.

cheers craig - actually I'll dig out my old haynes & see if it sheds any light. The reason I think the back pipe might also suck is that I
followed the "internal" pathway leading to it & it seemed to lead to the middle of the impeller.
TTFN
Bob
PS I can imagine pipe B providing the stat bypass route but it'll only work it it sucks won't it? (block is full of pressurised water from
pump)