After emptying another can full of packing in about 600 miles or so. I have been doing some research. Seems the bikers are using SUPERWOOL 607 to
repack their cans with. Apparently it doesn't burn out and is more or less fit and forget. I found a few suppliers on the net and the prices look
OK too.
Anyone used or had experience of this stuff ?
If it's worth using perhaps we could do a group buy from someone ?
I'm interested in this as well, so I just did a Google...
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/repack.htm
Some bike riders giving their experiences.
Warning about mask and gloves is worth noting.
LATE UPDATE: RS Components have it. Expensive, but there's probably enough in each roll for 2 or 3 cans, so the cost could be shared.
David
[Edited on 14/11/05 by David Jenkins]
EVEN LATER UPDATE!
Looking at the manufacturer's data sheets here, the only health issue
is temporary itching following contact, plus keep it away from the eyes.
Interesting to see that the "Superwool 607 blanket AC2" version is recommended for silencers in the text.
I'm going to have to find someone to sell me some of this stuff now... but I'm not paying Radiospares' prices! 
rgds,
David
DJ
[Edited on 14/11/05 by David Jenkins]
Or you could try ordinary Rockwool. Get the high density coarse stuff. There are even a few racecars that use it. Also, Stainless wool, when you can
get it.
Syd.
Syd,
How long is rockwool likely to last in a road-going car? It would certainly be cheaper, and probably easier to find.
DJ
If rockwool won't burn out (remember the super wool is rate to 1200 degrees) then Wicks sell large rolls / bales for about £7-£10 approx. What I really need is not to have to repack the silencer every 600 miles. I could do without the hassle (and itching) of the whole process. Stainless steel wool ? does that absorb sound like other types of packing ?
Rockwool is made by heating some sort of rock ( basalt I think, but not sure), then letting it run onto a spinning disc.
As a mineral, it is more heat resistant than glass. I've seen the glass melt in a comp silencer in 5 mins.
The main thing is to make sure that the wool is held away from the main centre tube by using gauze with spacers. The gauze (ideally stainless) holds
wool in place, and keeps it compact.
Very few, if any, packable silencers are made in this way. Unless the gauze is put in, you'll always have trouble, regardless of the packing.
With the packing held firm, you need less of it to achieve the needed silencing levels. As applied to the racecars, this means less weight, less heat
transfer, and the body can be lighter. This is current thinking, anyway. But could change at a whim, although I doubt it as the technology behind the
thinking is solid.
Forgot to add...The ss wool can go between the gauze and centre tube; or just fill the main body, but ss wool on its own will not achieve the same
result as gauze and Rockwool.
Syd.
[Edited on 15/11/05 by Syd Bridge]
quote:
Originally posted by givemethebighammer
If rockwool won't burn out (remember the super wool is rate to 1200 degrees) then Wicks sell large rolls / bales for about £7-£10 approx. What I really need is not to have to repack the silencer every 600 miles. I could do without the hassle (and itching) of the whole process. Stainless steel wool ? does that absorb sound like other types of packing ?
fibreglass offcuts also does the job !!
stainless steel wool is available from the plumbers shop !
just been doing a search and found this thread. did you end up using the superwool 607 stuff?
Im interested as ive got the RS catalogue open and a company credit card...
cheers
Mike