Was asked this afternoon to price a HG for an S reg 416, plastic inlet manifold, 42k
on clock. Emptied sump into rad, alledgedly no overheating.
Having read the threads on this subject I'm unsure as to whether I should get the head
skimmed and do I replace the head bolts ?

Sorry to revive this issue

both!

Thought so.

You dont have to replace the long stretch bolts as long as they are within the tolerance given in the manual.

However you will need to have the head skimmed.

No on both counts.

Fitting new head bolts on 1.6 and 1.8 engines fitted with alloy sumps can cause more problems, if you do fit new bolts they must be the latest spec XPart Genuine Rover parts.

Head bolts can be reused several times on K16 engines without any problem --- but they should always be checked for fitted length even new bolts should be checked for fitted length on the 1.6 and 1.8 engines. Procedure is given in the Haynes manual.

Clean the bolt threads with kerosene/wd40/gas oil but DON'T OIL allow to drip dry before fitting

Heads rarely warp on these engines.
Head need only be lightly skimmed if there is evidence of pin prick corrosion around the bore rings.
Inlet manifold gasket should be replaced as this is the most likely cause of the original problem.

Rover used 2 different types of thermostat on these engines if the car has a conventional thermostat not the external BMW style fit a new XPart (official Rover) thermostat and remove the joggle pin from the beed hole in the stat -- thermostat should be fitted with the upper most. The bleed hole can be enlarged to aid bleed.

Always use the latest spec gaskets
When torquing follw Rover procedure to the letter - using an ****accurate low range torque wrench*** for the first state.

Cam carrier seal is a Locitite sealant supplied via Xpart -- always use the official stuff.


When re-fitting the cam belt carefully check the condition of the roll pins that drive the sprockets and check the bottom sprocket is tight on the crank.
When refitting the inlet manifold put an extra washer under each nut and tighten the nuts to the correct torque following the latest rover tightening order.

When filling with coolant check the type before re-filling 2 types were used blue-green glycol or orange.red OAT they don't mix -- if you change the coolant type the engine should be acid flushed.

Comma make a suitable OAT coolant.

as BRITISH TRIDENT says!

Genuine Head Bolts if you do need to replace - check the length to see if they still in tolerance

My mate does a lot of Rovers / Elises and sometimes (earlier models) he's noticed that if the head needs exessive skimming, you can buy a Stainless Steel Saver Plate - its secured in with metal weld - same stuff as you do the cam carrier with

Good luck

Not convinced about the "head saver" plates. My dad mentioned that he's already had a few cars in with HGF that have had the head saver plate fitted.

What I can't understand is how it's supposed to seal against the head, is the loctite sealant really up to withstanding combustion pressures and temperatures?

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident

...remove the joggle pin from the beed hole in the stat

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I should add on this engine it sounds like the silicone tracks on the gasket have blown out -- can be quite spectactular when it happens but not major problem to fix as long as the engine hasn't been cooked.

[Edited on 12/5/06 by britishtrident]

[Edited on 12/5/06 by britishtrident]

Thanks for all the info guys.

Britishtrident, yep it was a spectacular failure, oil pi**ng out the header tank and there's
so much in the cooling systen I have no idea what colour the antifreeze is !