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X-flow Contactless Distributor
Dick Axtell - 13/5/06 at 01:42 PM

Hi All,

Has anybody tried out the LocUst method of achieving locost electronic ignition?

(Ref: http://www.locustenthusiastsclub.fsnet.co.uk/knowlegebase/elec_ign/electronic%20ignition..htm)

Looks like a reasonable solution - but how effective is it? Who's had experience of this recommended distributor change?


procomp - 13/5/06 at 01:47 PM

Hi a lot of the locost racers use this dizzy instead of the original fomoco or the lucas unit . There is no reason not to use it should be good and reliable .

cheers matt


Markp - 13/5/06 at 02:16 PM

I used this set up for two years and never had a problem. worth doing

Mark


Markp - 13/5/06 at 02:16 PM

I used this set up for two years and never had a problem. worth doing

Mark


DIY Si - 13/5/06 at 02:22 PM

Pah. £20 my ar$e. He's been had, mine cost 99p form e-bay.


UncleFista - 13/5/06 at 04:25 PM

Mine cost a tenner from the scrappers, don't forget to get the coil too


DIY Si - 13/5/06 at 04:27 PM

I'm assuming a lucas gold coil should work?


David Jenkins - 13/5/06 at 06:30 PM

Yep - it's what I've got on my x-flow. When you go to the scrappy, just have a good look at the cross-shaped thing inside and see if anyone's been bending it about - otherwise they are fairly bomb-proof.

Apart from that, make sure that you get the connector that goes into the electronics pack that's screwed into the side of the dizzy. Also, if you can, take off the electronics, clean up the surfaces and re-fit using heat-conductive paste (available from Maplins).

Oh yes - you'll probably need to replace the coil for a 12v one, and remove any cold-start resistor that's in the circuit.

Once fitted you'll never have to worry about adjusting point again!

It's an easy mod, and well worth doing.

David


DIY Si - 13/5/06 at 06:34 PM

It's ok, I've already got a complete good nick dizzy and a spare coil. Justr didn't want to blow the elctronics up by using a 12v coil if it should be 9v.


Marcus - 14/5/06 at 09:42 AM

I tried this conversion and failed dismally!
Think I bought a pup, the only thing left to change is the electronic module - could I buggery get a spark!!

Marcus


David Jenkins - 14/5/06 at 04:07 PM

All depends on whether you used the instructions in the Wallage book - I did, couldn't make it work - then found out that the wiring instruction heve gives are incorrect!

Wired it correctly and it worked perfectly.

David


Marcus - 14/5/06 at 04:10 PM

OK David,

How did you wire yours. there are only 3 wires, brown, black and green.

From memory,
Brown - chassis
Green - coil -ve
Black - coil +ve

Close?

Marcus


David Jenkins - 14/5/06 at 04:28 PM

That's the correct way - Wallage had the black and green swapped over.

The amplifier modules were liable to overheat when the metal they're attached to gets corroded. It may be worth trying another one, but clean the metal with some wire wool and apply some heatsink compound before refitting the module (available from Maplins).

David

[Edited on 14/5/06 by David Jenkins]


Dick Axtell - 30/5/06 at 04:17 PM

Thanks for all this VERY useful feedback, guys. Now it's off to the local scrappers.


Dick Axtell - 3/6/06 at 11:54 AM

Got the distributor and connector. So far so good.

What is the purpose of the metal shield, surrounding the cap? Do I have to retain it on the Locost?

Thanks
Dick


rusty nuts - 3/6/06 at 03:12 PM

The metal shield is something to do with radio/TV suppresion , left it off when I changed mine . Well worth fitting Valencia distributor even if only for not having to change /adjust points


David Jenkins - 3/6/06 at 03:34 PM

Like he said - you don't need the metal thingy.

David


Dick Axtell - 4/6/06 at 01:08 PM

Again, thank you for the feedback.

Dick