Is it just the angle of the dangle.....or will my engine never go in??
Ive removed all the obstructions as pointed out by marc(MNR) and iain(AGRIV8)!! when they came to visit, i,e the tunnel clearnce issuses and ive also
cut some chunks off the engine !
what am i doing wrong??
Theroretically it will fit into the space now but .........
..
....
and from the other side
you may think the sump is in the way, so ive removed it and give it another go, its a little further into the engine bay but no luck still!!!
But even if it did go with the sump removed that would be stupid, because i would have to drain oil and remove sump just to change clutch for
example
here is pics with sump removed...
Would it not make it easier if you split the engine/box ?
Yep, thats what I was going to suggest... Split the engine and box. Should go in easily then 
i tried that, when the box is in, pushed as far into tunnel as possible, and then when i lower the engine with the crank as close to the front as possible, there is the whole clutch which wont squeeze past the bellhousing!!
Will it go in from underneath?
Lift the Chassis, guide the gearbox up into the tunnel and then lift the engine and lower the chassis till its all in place
ERM it might but im on my own here@ the moment!
....ive blagged a favour from my mate 3 times to come and fit engine- and each time we come accross another hurdle!
What will i use to get the car high up! i wouldnt trust a trolly jack that high- plus it would be in the middle of the car to get enough height!!
right??
Then i guess id slide the engine under then reconnect to the engine crane!
....plus my engine and gear bo must weight 8 tonne already!
Yup, sounds like you've got the right idea, chock the reat wheels and put the trolly jack somewhere under the foot well area.
We've done it this way a few times for removing and replacing both FWD and RWD engines and gearboxes.
The trolley jack should be fine as it will only be supporting the weight of the chassis as it will just about be down by the time it takes any weight
of the engine.
if i put it at the rear of the engine bay (near center of car) i have no areas to lift from at its all flat plate
Can you use a piece of wood to bridge the gap between a few chassis rails?
Is the gearbox mount bracket welded to the chassis? Ive made mine so i can un bolt it, then jack front of chassis up and get a better angle on engine
and box just a thought
Is it poss to place the box in the tunnel, but further back? Then drop the engine in and move the two together? Not familiar with the chassis you've got so this could be complete ar$e.
quote:
Is the gearbox mount bracket welded to the chassis? Ive made mine so i can un bolt it, then jack front of chassis up and get a better angle on engine and box just a thoughtquote:
its part of the chassis!
Krismc - 21/5/06 at 12:34 PMquote:
Is it poss to place the box in the tunnel, but further back? Then drop the engine in and move the two together? Not familiar with the chassis you've got so this could be complete ar$e.
as the tunnel gets smaller as it comes to near the end of gear box i cant get the gear box in any further! and the gear stick mounting part rubs the 2 rails!
[Edited on 21/5/06 by Krismc]
DIY Si - 21/5/06 at 12:47 PMDidn't you manage to get it most of the wa in before like that?
scottc - 21/5/06 at 12:47 PMWhat about using the hoist to lift the front of the car and the jack to lift the engine in from underneath?
Krismc - 21/5/06 at 12:53 PMquote:
Didn't you manage to get it most of the wa in before like that?
yea with out the clutch on!! which adds a fair bit!
The flywheel nearly squeezed past the bellhousing!!
scottc - 21/5/06 at 01:00 PMFor a few cups of tea and a biscuit I could give you a hand this afternoon.
Never tried to do this before but I can shout at it for you!
I think I'm local to you.
zenarcher - 21/5/06 at 01:42 PMLooks like one of these jobs where 2 or 3 people would be a good thing, I would use the hoist to lift chassis and then lift engine/gb' combo on jack at the point of balance,if you see what I mean.
tks - 21/5/06 at 02:00 PMDunno how the box is, but i wouldn't like to connect an angine to the box.
Cant you dsimantle the box at the front??
for example take away the stick with its shit, until you come close the hte wall where the bearings are??
Then you havemore room to move in the tunnel right??
best option would be just make every thing wich sit in the way bolt on/off ready..
Tks
Peteff - 21/5/06 at 02:27 PMYou've got to lift the back end of the gearbox as you lower the engine and move it backwards or the car forwards at the same time, you could do with an engine leveller to use with the hoist.
Simon - 21/5/06 at 03:06 PMHow about raising the rear of the car.
ATB
Simon
Krismc - 21/5/06 at 03:08 PMthing is its not a final fit!!
and every thing that is bolted off is off.
i was going to test fit to mark and drill holes for mounts, then remove, sort starter and hydraulic clutch out then refit!
givemethebighammer - 21/5/06 at 06:47 PMPut the engine and gearbox on a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with a caster in each corner. Lift the car with the engine lift. Slide the engine and gearbox underneath. Lower the car (onto axle stands if necc). Then use the engine lift to lift and maneuver the engine and gearbox into position.
Worked for me when I built the tiger, took two of us to do the job.
good luck
Krismc - 21/5/06 at 06:49 PMWell it ended up being a 2 man job, scottc was in the area and willing to lend a hand- so we split the engine and fitted gear box first then engine-- it was very tight and took a lot off forcing past chassis rails to squeeze in, with a mm spare!!
here are a few pictures and i still need conformation that this will be ok fitted like this!!
1) the gear box shaft comes out over 1inch higher than where the height the diff flange is at
2) the gear box mount is right on the edge
3) the alternator is only a few mm from the rail
4) and how do i know the engine is level in all axis and shafts are pointing perfect???
5) gear stick side of box is very near the rails
gear box mount
driver side mount
passenger side mount
alternator clearance
gear stick clearance
[Edited on 21/5/06 by Krismc]
[Edited on 21/5/06 by Krismc]
marc n - 22/5/06 at 07:37 AMhi chris dont worry about prop angle they are better running at a slight angle rather than straight, key is to check th the sump line with regards levelness as if the engine is level box has to be as its bolted to it
best regards
marc
Krismc - 22/5/06 at 04:50 PM....well ive got them bolted together and if i put the cam cover on and check the engine with a spirt level ill get a rough idea???
or will there be too many varying factors!!