does sound like the release bearing is the problem and ive used ap and borg covers and thwy are all
the same so looks like you may have to pull the input shaft sleeve out and machine into the collar to get the clearance you need
So my clutch has been slipping for a while, not baddly but noticible if relly thraping it.
This afternoon though I would nip up to the Jetwash and clean all them hard to reach parts.
On the way back lost all drive luckilly 100 yards from.
So pushed her into the garage and thought lets have the bugger out did not think I would manage it on my own but 3 and a bit hours later she is
removed.
Nothing too obvious though I think the clutch plate started life yellow.
I suspect my release bearing has not been backing of the presure plate enough.
Anyone like to mention anything else from the photo ? I have never really had any problems with clutches apart from getting down to the rivets.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=clutch_fly_presure.jpg
sorry its so large.
Could somone tell me what the space between the fingers and the release bearing should be when the clutch pedal is released ( running a concentrick
release bearing ).
Flywheel skiming and balancing suspect this can be done at the local engine reconditioners ?
can you still get the friction linning re-fitted.
Does anyone know which is the least deep clutch for the rover v8 i.e. which one when mounted does the fingers stick out the least
Many thanks
Agriv8 or should that be agriv8out
why go for a concentric bearin rather than the normal one
not sure what you want me to say? all looks normal about from the red colour dust.
questions - you fitted the clutch plate the right way round? I ask since it sould be possible to fit this it 2 ways, only one way is right - unless
it is truly symmetrical. long time my friend replaced clutch on triumph spitfrie and couldnlt engage gear - had to whip the engine out to find the
clutch plate was put in the wrong way.
quote:
Originally posted by moggybloke
why go for a concentric bearin rather than the normal one
quote:
but notice when i bolt the geabox up that the release bearing starts to push on the fingers of the presure plate. surly this cant be right
Has one side of the pressure plate got a nose on it? It should point away from the flywheel. What is the ring mark on the inside of the diaphragm spring, is it making contact with the friction plate shock springs and holding the plate so it wears quicker.
perhaps you.ve overgeared it with that new diff does sound like the release bearing is the problem and ive used ap and borg covers and thwy are all
the same so looks like you may have to pull the input shaft sleeve out and machine into the collar to get the clearance you need
Hi Ian,
If it 's not just a clearance problem could it be master cyl pushrod adjustment not letting the concentric cyl release.
I notice the inside of the fingers on the pressure plate have a mark as if they have been touching the clutch plate, it is difficult to tell from the
photo but this is not normal, its as if it is pushing the fingers too far.
HTH
regds
Ian
[Edited on 4/9/06 by roadboy]
I agree about the release bearing, it may be holding the clutch partially operated thus slipping. Might be worth taking the slave cylinder out, or is
it a Cable clutch, in which case slacken off the adjustment.
Do you have to push the pedal far to get the clutch to disengage?. ie it operates the clutch at the top of bottom of the pedal travel.
On the pressure plate there should be the word FLYWHEEL to tell you which way round to put the firction plate. It could be why there are marks on the
inside of the spring fingers.
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
I agree about the release bearing, it may be holding the clutch partially operated thus slipping. Might be worth taking the slave cylinder out, or is it a Cable clutch, in which case slacken off the adjustment.
Do you have to push the pedal far to get the clutch to disengage?. ie it operates the clutch at the top of bottom of the pedal travel.
On the pressure plate there should be the word FLYWHEEL to tell you which way round to put the firction plate. It could be why there are marks on the inside of the spring fingers.
I would think with hydraulic operation that they will still be in contact but not under any pressure as the diaphragm will be returning the thrust bearing when the pressure is released, not a spring at the lever end as in cable operation.
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I would think with hydraulic operation that they will still be in contact but not under any pressure as the diaphragm will be returning the thrust bearing when the pressure is released, not a spring at the lever end as in cable operation.
Hi Ian,
It is usual for the thrust bearing to contact the fingers in the rest position, as you say it could be a bellhousing distance problem, hope you get it
sorted soon.
Best regds
Ian
thanks Ian,
Cant see what would pull the release bearing of the presure plate. i suppose the only way it could if there is a spring in the concentric release
bearing to return it of the presure plate when the pedal is released.
Does anyone know how these concentric bearings work ist a Ap one which i belive is a copy of the saab item but with a larger bore size for the rather
large inpu shaft of my BMW box.
3 week lead time for a decent ap racing setup (pesure plate and clutch ). so looks like a little time to rebuild engine no 2
Regards
Iain