Following an engine transplant, I've got no spark when I crank over the engine. I've checked the coil and I'm getting no voltage on the
coil. Everything was OK before the engine swop. What am I overlooking ?
Knackered Dizzy or is it the original?...
little wire on the starter not the one to crank it over the other on.
Oh ps depends which engine loom / dizzie you are using.
regards
Agriv8
Explain more please. I did have some confusion over the starter motor wires. Its the original electronic points that I've swopped over.
Have a look on the side of the distributor body - there will be a part number on there to help identify your ignition system.
35DE8 should be used in conjunction with a silver "box" with 3 connections each side (ballast resistor 9BR);
35DM8 has a separate ignition amp (usually under the coil);
35DLM8 has a black amp attached to the side of the distributor.
Once you identify the system you have we can help with the wiring (maybe)
Its in a Defender 110 with LPG conversion. It was runing well until the V8 turned into a steam engine !
All I've done is whipped the engine out and chucked in a different one.
Is it possible I've still not got the starter motor wires in the correct place ?
Definitely possible! There is a trick wire, a little skinny thing. This provides power to the coil while cranking and can be a ballast wire depending
on the installation. Did you bring the coil with the engine or is it the original one? Have you got any volts across the coil with the ignition on? If
it is 6 V then you have a ballast wire in there somewhere. Check the resistance of the coil if it is in the region of 3.4 ohms you need to change it
for a low resistance one, 1.5 Ohm for 6V.
If it measures anything else, straight to bin unless it says sports coil on it!
Next try measuring the voltage across the coil while you are cranking the engine you must see 12V no matter what coil you have. If you have no volts
then the tricky wire from the starter isn't there or is broken. On proper starter motors there is a small tab for the tricky wire on after market
starters this is often not there so you need to put a big ring on the tricky wire and connect to the solenoid connection from the starter switch. Once
that is checked out you should be working. If you are still not going you need to start tracing wires from the ignition switch and check whether you
should be getting volts to the coil when cranking. As with all things land Rover there are many different ignition switch modules that are
mechanically identical so fit various rangies, discos defenders, 90s and 110s that have different behaviors and as they break ,get frequently swapped
into something other than they come from with lots of consequent weird effects and bodged wiring!
Once you have figured this out you will be as much of an expert as me in LR ignition wiring!
caber
Thanks Caber. I'll have a look at it on Sunday. I kept the original coil so I'm guessing it definately one of the wires on the starter thats
wrong. I'll get a picture if it still don't start !
quote:
Originally posted by caber
Definitely possible! There is a trick wire, a little skinny thing. This provides power to the coil while cranking and can be a ballast wire depending on the installation. Did you bring the coil with the engine or is it the original one? Have you got any volts across the coil with the ignition on? If it is 6 V then you have a ballast wire in there somewhere. Check the resistance of the coil if it is in the region of 3.4 ohms you need to change it for a low resistance one, 1.5 Ohm for 6V.
If it measures anything else, straight to bin unless it says sports coil on it!
Next try measuring the voltage across the coil while you are cranking the engine you must see 12V no matter what coil you have. If you have no volts then the tricky wire from the starter isn't there or is broken. On proper starter motors there is a small tab for the tricky wire on after market starters this is often not there so you need to put a big ring on the tricky wire and connect to the solenoid connection from the starter switch. Once that is checked out you should be working. If you are still not going you need to start tracing wires from the ignition switch and check whether you should be getting volts to the coil when cranking. As with all things land Rover there are many different ignition switch modules that are mechanically identical so fit various rangies, discos defenders, 90s and 110s that have different behaviors and as they break ,get frequently swapped into something other than they come from with lots of consequent weird effects and bodged wiring!
Once you have figured this out you will be as much of an expert as me in LR ignition wiring!
caber