Got my car back on the road at the beginninfg of April, noticed a lack of power last few trips out when i pressed the accelerator - as if it was struggling getting fuel??
changed the points and condensor on the dizzy, set the points gap , thinking that was the cause,and now it struggles to start after a short run, and completely failed on me today after a short run out - there was a bit of popping at farting from the exhaust, and then suffered from a complete failure and I coasted to a stop.as if it was firing on all cylinders?? ( new plugs fitted) engine had overheated a bit, so after a bit of a cool down , it re-started and I limped home - I am completely pissed of with it at the min!!
any ideas as to what could be causing these problems?? coil?? HT leads??, any help would be greatly appreciated,
regards,
Greg
- oh yes - engine is a 2l pinto, burton fast rd cam, twin 45 webbers, and an aldon dizzy.cheers

do a compression check then start from there if its low you will have no chance of it running properly
adam

you seem to have checked all the obvious things on the ignition side, have you cleaned the carbs, check the fuel pump is providing enough pressure?

checked the filters in the carbs, and cleaned them,
it's running on the mechanical fuel pump, with a pressure regulator + filter fitted,
will check the timing again tomorrow, carbs could do with a complete stripdown and re-build I suppose, but i'm guessing its more electrical??
cheers for the replies so far

If you are getting fuel flow then it does sound like a timing problem. Check the coil preferably by swapping for a known good one, they can start breaking down as they heat up. Check the dizzy for mechanical advance movement, take cap off and see if you can move the rotor arm, it should rotate against the advance springs smoothly, if it is sticky or stiff strip it and clean it, they can stick after a lay up. It could also by grotty fuel after the lay up, at the worst it can form a nasty jelly in the carb this entails a strip and clean, also check tank for grot and replace fuel filter.

Best of luck!

Caber

The original mechanical fuel pump may supply enough fuel (contrary to popular belief) for the 45s, but does it supply the correct pressure? Twin Webers need 3.5 to 4lbs psi to function correctly.

Your problem sounds like blocked jets to me.

have set the fuel pressure regulator for the 45's, so it should be ok, will have to whip the jets out and give em a good clean later tonight,
will have a go and swop the coil over too, see if that's it. keep the advice comin!!
Greg

Don't forget to check the cam belt hasn't slipped

when mine played up it turned out to be muck
in the fuel tank
Ring or u2u if you need a hand
Ian

cheers Ian,
just going out to the garage to try a few things!!

Is it burning the points? I had similar with points when I didn't have a ballast resistor. I swapped for inductive discharge from an early car.

Using a ballast resistor coil without trhe resistor will damage the condensor and cause the points to burn causing misfire /breakdown

it has a ballast resistor fitted, I have swopped the coil over now, cleaned the jets and filter bowl out in the filter king regulator, checked the timing with a strobe, found it was way out!! was reading at TDC!! not suprising it was getting hot!!! - re set it to 8 deg BTDC, running a lot better now, need to have a good run out in it now!!!
many thanks for the replies to date, greatly appreciated

found it was popping and farting at 8 deg btdc, so I have now set it to 12 deg -running a lot better now.
cheers for all the help troops