hobbsy
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 11:30 PM |
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Tintop (Mk5 Polo) CV Joint Boot Replacement Advice?
My gf's car has a split passenger side CV boot. Spotted a bit of dark grease on the alloy. Mk5 Polo (6N2).
I've not changed one before but I'd rather not take the driveshaft out the gearbox so looking at something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180324293461
I've also seen the split ones you glue but I can't believe they will last very long.
Opinions please...
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 11:54 PM |
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Stretchy ones are fine, most garages use them now. The glue ones are as crap as you suspect!
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 06:57 AM |
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I have done a few stretchy's on my Volvo. No problems. Quality is ok.
If you cannot succeed without pulling the driveshaft, you can always decide to pull it anyway. It's not that much extra work.
If you need to drain gearbox oil, be sure to fill up to the correct level. The (lack of) gearbox oil seems to be a weak point in these Polo's.
At least for diesel versions that is...
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 08:45 AM |
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Personally I just pull the driveshaft off, though some manuals recommend the shaft/gearbox locking ring is replaced but I've never bothered.
Watch for smelly gearbox oil pouring out, always a good idea to take the opportunity to replace the gearbox oil anyway. I'm sure the stretchy
boot thing works well so long as the boot has been heated up in hot water beforehand.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 08:54 AM |
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A stretch boot kit will work but it is essential to use QH stretch boots all the others are rubbish and will tear as you stretch them..
If you need more lubricant to get the boot over use olive oil -- it works a treat.
Garages now use a much better tool for this job but it well outside the DIY price range.
However keep two things in mind
(1) The cold weather will make the boot very difficult to stretch.
(2) If the joint has already leaked grease the chances are it is already beyond saving.
Better to replace the CV joint or the whole shaft.
[Edited on 3/2/09 by britishtrident]
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adithorp
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 10:40 AM |
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That'll do the job fine as long as the boot has only just split. Keep your fingers crossed thet the weather/grit hasn't got in. If it
looks full of poo then change the joint otherwise you'll probably get away with it. Worst case it starts to Knock in 6 months.
QH boots are "Dura-boot". Beware of cheap ones. Don't forget to turn the boot inside-out, then slide it on big end first then turn
it back the right way out. Get that wrong and you'll have to cut it off and start again!
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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BenB
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 12:11 PM |
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Sticky boots are pants.
Or rather- they're a quick bodge to get through an MOT so you can fix them at your leisure later BUT....
tendency is to not replace them with a proper one until you realise the boot has come unstuck, it's got no grease and it's clacking and
clicking (ie the CV is shagged).
Guess how I know..... 
Okay so replacing a CV isn't much more work that replacing the CV boot but it's still unecessary hassle.... Also, a proper CV boot is
£5-10. A stick boot is £15-20 and then a new CV is £25-30. Why spend £40-50 when you can spend £5-10......
You'll def need to warm up the stretchy ones at the moment otherwise it'll be impossible (it's hard enough when they're warm
and flexible!!)....
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 12:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
a new CV is £25-30.
Cheap and nasty reconditioned/Chinese ones are, a proper OEM joint will be a fair bit more I bet.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 06:54 PM |
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Takes only a few seconds to remove the C.V. joint from the shaft (without removing the shaft from the car) after disconnecting the lower swivel and
hub nut which you would do anyhow.Which makes it easier to clean and repack with CV grease a couple of taps with a hammer will replace the joint on
the shaft after sliding on the gaiter. I have an air powered stretching tool but still find it just as quick to fit a normal gaiter which also tends
to be cheaper. Older Astra's etc can be done without even undoing the hub nut and swivel and can take less than five minutes to do.
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