prawnabie
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 10:58 AM |
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Type 9 hydraulic conversion...
Hi guys..
Im hoping to replace my ageing type 2 with a type 9 sometime this year, ready for some european trips next summer.
I hoping the gearbox will actually fit with minor mods to where the rear mount sits and of course a shorter prop with the correct end.
My problem is with the clutch arm, I think it will foul the drivers footwell area and would rather convert to hydraulic rather than chop and reweld
parts of the chassis.
I am hoping there is a cheapish hydraulic conversion availble, or if someone knows a locost solution that would be even better!!
Any ideas?
Thanks
Shaun
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coozer
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 11:02 AM |
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Thought about a push rod system? Can be made to give a positive pedal action for next to nowt. Few rod ends, a pivot and some bar, job done.
Its on my list to get rid of the acute bend I my cable that has me thinking it will fail prematurely...
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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prawnabie
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 11:04 AM |
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Im guessing I would still need a clutch arm sticking out the box for that? Im really struggling for space there!
Thanks
Shaun
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coozer
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 11:09 AM |
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No, you can shorten the clutch arm so its within the bellhousing (they don't stick out too much) then bias the pivot over to compensate for
pedal pressure.
If you were to use a heavy duty fast road clutch for example you can bias the pivot to reduce the pressure at the pedal.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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coozer
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 11:22 AM |
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Here's a quick schematic..
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 11:39 AM |
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where is blake? im sure hes done it and can help 
Craig
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owelly
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 12:23 PM |
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I turned down the nose trumpet off the type9, thus.....
And used a Mondeo concentric slave.
I whittled a bracket to stop the slave from spinning that bolts to the bellhousing and the long bleed nipple pokes through a little hole next to the
hydraulic pipe.
A very locost solution as the slave was free......
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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blakep82
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 12:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
where is blake? im sure hes done it and can help
here i am! *waves*
here's some pictures of what i did using an alloy mount and spacer from burton, and a mondeo slave cylinder
http://www.bebo.com/PhotoAlbumBig.jsp?PageNbr=1&MemberId=4198536397&PhotoAlbumId=7348443979&PhotoId=9367986613
i hope the 3 pictures make sense, i can't write too much about it just now, but u2u me if you need anything explained. i used:
mount APC6B from burton power, you'll need a spacer also, you have to measure this part, but for an example spacer
APC7C from burton power,
and i used a slave cylinder from a mondeo.
you'd also need to make a steel plate to go between the mount and spacer, the holes it needs are the same as the ones on the alloy spacer.
the spacer will need some bits ground out of it too.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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DavidW
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 01:12 PM |
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Are there in issues with engine movement when using a pushrod clutch?
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coozer
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 01:26 PM |
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Not that i can see, with rods about a foot long there will be enough natural movement in the system for the tiny amount of engine movement.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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procomp
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 01:30 PM |
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Hi
The trouble with using the Ford item pictured above is that the desighn of it dose not really give enough travel to operate the older type clutches
that are likely to be fitted. There is only around 5-6 mm of travel before the seals are past there operating range. Hence the reason many of them are
being changed so often on these types of conversions. And also why many still use the Saab units.
Cheers Matt
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 01:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Not that i can see, with rods about a foot long there will be enough natural movement in the system for the tiny amount of engine movement.
But any fore/aft movement of the engine will transfer that movement directly to the clutch arm, and if the pushrod is angled then lateral movement of
the engine will be converted into motion at the clutch arm.
With very stiff engine mounts I'm sure this will be fine, with softer ones I reckon this would be a recipe for clutch judder.
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coozer
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 02:35 PM |
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Engines don't move around enough for that to be an issue I'm sure.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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gregs
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 04:51 PM |
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I'm busy converting mine using a land rover series slave & master using the existing push rod... hope it'll work.
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blakep82
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 04:55 PM |
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there was mention of the ford mondeo one not working well, i guess it depends on the clutch etc. i did mine on a vauxhall engine. the slave cylinder
itself has over 1" travel (from memory, i might be wrong) and if you get your spacers right, you shouldn'yt need all that movement. well,
i'll see how it goes anyway 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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clairetoo
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| posted on 1/7/09 at 08:42 PM |
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I did mine with a Vauxhall Corsa cylinder , and at first had too much travel (enough to press the friction plate onto the flywheel  )
One year of use and no problems at all - plus they can be found on fleabay for as little as £25 .
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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