Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
<<  1    2  >>
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: MGF K series
rusty nuts

posted on 30/7/09 at 06:11 PM Reply With Quote
Don't forget the bleeder near the bulkhead behind the spare wheel when you do get around to bleeding it again
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 30/7/09 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
file mgtf.jpg in my archive might help





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Trev Borg

posted on 30/7/09 at 09:09 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replie.
Managedto get to have a looking in between the rain spells today.

Could see anything, oil looked very clean

dip stick very clean
water very clean

Went the bleen the system from radiator end, but nothing came out until i removed header cap.

Replace cap, and tighened the radiator bolt.

Removed cap again, and could hear water trickling.

Guess what.



do not know if the metal pipe has a crack or if it is rusted through, but if i press my finger against it, it stops



think the pipe is this one





Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.

By that time, who cares.

You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
MikeRJ

posted on 30/7/09 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
That's the pipe that connects to the back of the thermostat housing. If you have to take that all off it would be worth removing out the original thermostat and plumbing in the external Rover PRT thermostat which improves things significantly on the mid engined K series cars.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Trev Borg

posted on 30/7/09 at 09:47 PM Reply With Quote
I don't plan on keeping the engine, just proving it the pipework problen, not the engine, then selling the engine.

Speaking of modding the cooling system, what are your thoughts on this mod.

http://www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net/





Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.

By that time, who cares.

You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 31/7/09 at 07:02 AM Reply With Quote
If the engine is OK why change it "work with wot u got" putting anything else in would be silly.

Put the PRRT thermostat in you are going to have to change all the plumbing anyway.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Trev Borg

posted on 31/7/09 at 06:30 PM Reply With Quote
Can you use the coolant pipes from the TF?
Do they have the new position pressure thermostat?





Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.

By that time, who cares.

You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 31/7/09 at 07:59 PM Reply With Quote
The new thermostat was introduced in mid 2003 --- not all MGTF have it.

It is actually a Landrover part used on the TD5 powered Defender and Discoverty and Freelander 1.8 ---- PEM100990 or PEL100990 which can be found for about 14 pounds.

PEM100990 has grey body and lower operating temperature than PEL100990 which has cream coloured body.

XPart agents will sell you a full fitting kit which is relative expensive however if you want to adapt the existing hoses it can be fitted using a little ingenuity using instruction off the web. If doing this it import too disable the original thermostat by removing the valve plate --- don't remove completly.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Trev Borg

posted on 31/7/09 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
There seems to be a few variation on a theme when i look on the net.

From fitting the complete set up from the ft, to fitting a by pass thermastat housing near the radiator, with eaither a drilled original stas or cut out original stat.

I like the look of the one at the front near the rad.

From your experience, what the cheapest, easiest, and most effective?

also, should i fit a coolant level indicator thingy, and how.

sorry for all the questions





Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.

By that time, who cares.

You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 1/8/09 at 09:48 AM Reply With Quote
The only cars I have converted were FWD Rovers I can't really say which is easyiest.
The cheapiest is modifying the original type thermostat --- Drilling the original type thermostat works to a degree and makes the system easier to bleed much less likely to air lock but dosen't control the temperature so well. Also the PRRT thermostat allows much better circulation during initial warm up.

The tank level switch mod is a good idea but not essential -- the system shouldn't lose water anyway. best way to ensure no water loss is to do a pressure tes when cold.
It is very easy to make a pressure tester up from a pump action garden sprayer (type with a pressure gauge is best) and a plastic tee piece from Halfords, you also need a short bit of hose the same size as the small bore hose that goes to te header tank. Just fill the sprayer with premixed coolant, Tee into hose to the header tank and you can then pressure fill and bleed the system and do pressure test.

[Edited on 1/8/09 by britishtrident]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Trev Borg

posted on 1/8/09 at 10:21 AM Reply With Quote
Sounds like a plan.

Should have enoug bit of pipes and tees to do that in the shed, along with a coulpe of garden sprayers.

I will have a go at fitting the presure stat aswell.


cheers





Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.

By that time, who cares.

You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
<<  1    2  >>
New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.