cd.thomson
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| posted on 11/11/09 at 09:29 AM |
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radiator orientation
My radiator doesn't have a cap but it does have a small outlet near the top that goes back to the header tank.
Due to the location of the inlet and outlets and my chassis it is going to be immeasurably easier to mount the rad upside down.
I have two questions besides "is this possible":
1. whats the best way to block off that small outlet in the rad? I can't weld but was thinking of using plumbing solder.
2.
My alternative is to tap the cooling pipe at B in the picture above and then it should all be fine... right?
[Edited on 11/11/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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blakep82
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| posted on 11/11/09 at 10:40 AM |
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radiator orientation? mine's straight 
is it an 8mm outlet? small piece of rubber hose to fit snugly over it, and an 8mm bolt, or something a bit more smooth without threads in it, stuck in
the other end will block it off.
it does help get air out the system though, so keep it at the top if any way possible
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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02GF74
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| posted on 11/11/09 at 12:06 PM |
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hose and bolt is one way, not my prefered way.
depends on what the header is amde from - plastic, aluminium or brass.
for brass, get a 1 cm metal rod or a short bolt and solder using plumbers solder into the end - you may want to put damp rag to prevent heat reaching
the matrix and unsoldering that.
for aluminium, then same but auminium rod and lumiweld/techno weld.
insted of sledering, you could try epoxy but that is not my prefered way.
you will need to have to fit bleed tube coming off the top.
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dhutch
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| posted on 11/11/09 at 01:28 PM |
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Presumably the images are guide images from SBD for a specific engine rather than you trying to show what you doing.
- Top hose isnt show in the side elivation either!
But no, i see no reason not to mount the rad upside down as long as you still run the inlet in at the top and the outlet out atthe bottom. (ie, swap
them relative to the rad fittings)
You will then loose the bleed point at the top of the rad (block off as you feel fit) and will have to replace this with a bleed point else where,
such as the engine take off (c) or midway along the top hose (b).
Ulitmatly you cna do what you like, as long as you consider the fact that you need to get air out of the system.
My car doesnt have a bleed on the rad, but as the top of the rad is about 3inches lower than the top of the top hose that wouldnt be much use
anyway.
- Instead i have a bleed point at the top end of the top hose (lenght of solid pipe) right by the thermostat housing that bleeds to atmopher when
opened.
- Although theres then also a bleed barb out of the thermostat housing (ford fitment) back to the header tank. Which is what i actually use.
I can fill the whole system up in one go from the header filler and it just works stright away, which for me, is classed as successfull design.
Dainel
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