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Author: Subject: Rubber sump gasket - to use sealant or not?
stevegough

posted on 6/1/10 at 01:45 PM Reply With Quote
Rubber sump gasket - to use sealant or not?

I have shortened my sump, ready to fit, as it is an XE engine I am using the rubber sump gasket as opposed to the two cork ones fitted as standard - (this is taking some sound advice from one of the guys on here (thanks, Gary).

Photos of sump mods in my archive - comments are welcome.....

The rubber sump gasket has what can be best described as a slot in it all the way round to accommodate the windage tray.

I am just about to fit the sump and I was wondering whether to use any sealant as well?

I did a quick google and the info on there suggests silicone will lubricate the rubber and make it slip out causing a leak. Another site mentioned using Hylomar sealant, but only on the gasket which has a cork part, and then only on the cork.

I suppose the same question goes for the rocker cover gasket.

What do you guys think - what have you done?

Thanks in advance for your replies....





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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Dingz

posted on 6/1/10 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
If the surfaces are good I would just use a very light smear of grease don't bother with silicone tho' its expensive too.





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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bimbleuk

posted on 6/1/10 at 03:18 PM Reply With Quote
My first couple of attemps on my 4AGE both leaked a little. I changed my method slightly and haven't suffered a leak since. All I do is seal the windage plate only to the engine block and leave it overnight. Then next day I seal the tin sump to the windage plate and engine as usual.

The only other thing I did was to make studs from shortened bolts to make the whole bolting up process a lot easier. Especially when I was using a wide winged sump. There aren't any gaskets for the 20V 4AGE I'm using.

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BenB

posted on 6/1/10 at 04:44 PM Reply With Quote
I'm a fan of Hylomar blue sealant for these kinds of jobs. Might be okay without but it's not that expensive... If you're using a setting sealant make sure you don't accidentally get bits of it falling off inside the engine...
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omega 24 v6

posted on 6/1/10 at 05:35 PM Reply With Quote
I just used rtv silicone sealant as well. following advice from Ns Dev IIRC I used a cordless drill and zipped up the bolts to one of the higher preset torque setting on it.





If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.

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stevegough

posted on 6/1/10 at 09:48 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for replies and info, have now fitted it - rubber gasket IS easier to install - followed Dingz advice, (fittted it before the other info!) used a trace of grease, bolted up but not convinced I've got a decent seal as the rubber has squeezed outwards a tad.

The Manual gives 11 lb/ft as the correct sump bolt torque, but I think the rubber gasket makes that hard to achieve (the book is assuming I'm using twin cork gaskets).

I don't think they are even as tight as they would be with the torque setting on the cordless as Omega mentioned - do we continue to tighten? - because the gasket is sliding out as I increase the pressure!





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member

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