alistairolsen
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 03:19 PM |
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Homebrew turbo fitment questions...
If one was doing a home brew turbo conversion and had a donor turbo from another car........
The oil feed tends to be a hard pipe. Are any of these fittings standard or do I need to take pipes with the correct ends to Pirtek or whoever to get
a braided one made? Where is best to take the feed from? Vauxhalls have a spare port in the oil pump sealed with a grub screw normally don't
they?
Oil return needs to be oil resistant and flexible. Again I guess I need a flange with a spur on it for the turbo and a tapped fitting into the block?
Looking at Ebay these seem to be turbo specific? I've read that they needs to drain out above the oil level, but provided the core is above the
oil, and the hose falls down from there, why does the end need to be above the oil?
Water feed and return, again, do these tend to be standard fittings? I assume I can get banjos with spurs on them to use normal rubber hoses and
jubilees? Where is best to plumb it in? The heater matrix doesn't always flow, and the header tank is just a one sided spur....... Do I need to
tee the rad hoses or something?
Finally boost control, in its simplest form I assume I need a piece of hose from the inlet tract (after the throttle plate) to the waste gate actuator
via the boost controller?
Cheers
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boggle
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 03:25 PM |
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boost contoll....
from the turbo inlet housing straight to the acuator....will give you boost dependent on actuator spring preasure...or...via a bleed valve will give
you an adjustment over boost....or via an electronic boost controller such as an apexi avcr, this is the best way but the most expensive....
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 03:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
If one was doing a home brew turbo conversion and had a donor turbo from another car........
The oil feed tends to be a hard pipe. Are any of these fittings standard or do I need to take pipes with the correct ends to Pirtek or whoever to get
a braided one made? Where is best to take the feed from? Vauxhalls have a spare port in the oil pump sealed with a grub screw normally don't
they?
Oil return needs to be oil resistant and flexible. Again I guess I need a flange with a spur on it for the turbo and a tapped fitting into the block?
Looking at Ebay these seem to be turbo specific? I've read that they needs to drain out above the oil level, but provided the core is above the
oil, and the hose falls down from there, why does the end need to be above the oil?
Water feed and return, again, do these tend to be standard fittings? I assume I can get banjos with spurs on them to use normal rubber hoses and
jubilees? Where is best to plumb it in? The heater matrix doesn't always flow, and the header tank is just a one sided spur....... Do I need to
tee the rad hoses or something?
Finally boost control, in its simplest form I assume I need a piece of hose from the inlet tract (after the throttle plate) to the waste gate actuator
via the boost controller?
Cheers
Send me a number, and ill give you a call if you like. IVe Just done the same, an can tell you the pitfalls that i came across as well.
Rich.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:04 PM |
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That would be great mate!
From what I gather the oil feed is generally a banjo fitting in a number of standard sizes that any hydraulics place should easily match.
Water lines are tee'd into the heater matrix pipes. Some turbos they're onto barbed connectors.
The return I guess if its a solid line Ill just trim off the flange and a stub and get some rubber to go over it and tap the sump.
My Build Thread
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jambojeef
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:32 PM |
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Turbo needs to be mounted high enough so that cornering forces dont slosh oil back up the drain and into the bearing housing.
I had no choice but to go low with the mouting of the turbo so necessitating a scavenge pump. Shame cos they arent cheap + are quite heavy + need
extra hoses and wires etc + are something else to go wrong!
Go high - thats my advice.
Geoff
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flibble
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:34 PM |
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Just out of curiosity/nosiness for a possible future project, what are you using for fuel control?
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:37 PM |
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its a MAF controlled engine, so good results can be had by increasing the MAF housing size and fuel pressure/injector size in proportion.
My Build Thread
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
its a MAF controlled engine, so good results can be had by increasing the MAF housing size and fuel pressure/injector size in proportion.
MAP is more accurate and should make the engine run more consistently. Apparently.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
I've read that they needs to drain out above the oil level, but provided the core is above the oil, and the hose falls down from there, why does
the end need to be above the oil?
If you mean the point at which is enters the sump, it doesn't have to be above the oil, the one on my Fiat Coupe is a little below the oil line.
I discovered this when I removed the turbo...
Note the drain hose has to cope with some very hot oil, standard oil hose such as you'd use for an oil cooler isn't really up to the job
(at least not for any length of time). The stuff used on OEM installations is pretty expensive stuff, and I'd love to know if you can buy it in
arbitrary lengths as I need some for my Fiat, and the dealers want nearly £60 for ~8 inches of hose.
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 04:41 PM |
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You may get good results regarding fuelling, but the timing will be way off, too advanced for load conditions.
Darren
[Edited on 17/2/10 by turbodisplay]
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 05:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
its a MAF controlled engine, so good results can be had by increasing the MAF housing size and fuel pressure/injector size in proportion.
MAP is more accurate and should make the engine run more consistently. Apparently.
maf , is the total amount of air entering the engine . cant get much better calibration than that .
maf allows self learning also .
map sensors tho , can tolerate air leaks to a certain extent .
increasing the MAF size in accordance with injector duty cycle will advance the timing which will be a good thing , and most vehicles have knock
sensors too .
also most ecus can have pins grounded which advance/retard the timing .
t5 ecus may still cut fuel tho since they have an overboost protection built in , ill havr to check that tho .
re oil lines use m14x1.5 banjo bolt with ptfe lined braided hose min 3/8 diameter and use a 10mm compression fitting at the turbo end on the existing
hardd pipe .
youll need to use high temperature hose for the return .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
its a MAF controlled engine, so good results can be had by increasing the MAF housing size and fuel pressure/injector size in proportion.
MAP is more accurate and should make the engine run more consistently. Apparently.
not if youre trying to run a turbo on n/a management!
Cheers Volovorsport, but this isnt for the T5 engine, thats getting a big turbo and proper management and boost control.
This is for trying to get 270bhp out of a bmw 24v six using the old turbo off the T5 and whatever else I can lay my hands on for not a lot!
[Edited on 17/2/10 by alistairolsen]
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