mkben.21
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 posted on 1/7/10 at 06:16 PM |
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My Carb doesn't fit!!
Hello,
I bought a finished Mk Indy a couple of months back. Its got a 2.0 pinto with a stage 1 burton head on top. But it was never as fast as i thought it
should be, so i started looking under the bonnet and found i had a weber carb from a 1.6 pinto. After deciding which route to go i bought a Weber DGAV
32/36 with a manifold to put on. Tonight i had taken off the old carb and manifold, and tried test fitting the DGAV, this is where my problem is....
The water controlled choke is hitting the Rocker cover, so the carb and manifold dont meet properly. ARGH. Im always hitting problems like this when
im changing bits and bobs over to improve things!!! Has anyone come accross this prob before or anyone got any idea's.
Thanks for any help.
Ben
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:20 PM |
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Take the choke off its not needed all you have to do is pump the throttle pedal to start
i even removed the choke flaps in mine before i went on to bike carbs
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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prawnabie
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:20 PM |
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convert to a manual choke?
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RichardK
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:20 PM |
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I wouldn't bother with a dgav mate, possibly would try a dgas but I went for bike carbs and not looked back, if you've got a performance
head I would defo go for bike carbs.
Loads of picture in my gallery (link below) of when I made my carb manifold and cb600 hornet honda carbs.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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r1_pete
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:23 PM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=137032
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omega0684
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:45 PM |
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ditch the down draft straight away and get a set of bike carbs.
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 06:46 PM |
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Have a brand new manual choke conversion kit sitting somewhere in the garage if you interested ---not sure how much space it would save though.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Dusty
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 07:06 PM |
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Another vote for remove all the choke gubbins. You don't need it. Try it . Should be much better than the 1.6 carb. DGAS is only a small upgrade
from your DGAV but bike carbs properly set up will release more power again. power
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jase380
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 07:15 PM |
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bin it and put some bike carbs on !
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 08:03 PM |
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There should be a thermal spacer block between the manifold and the carb, have you got one fitted? That raises the carb about half an inch higher.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 08:27 PM |
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Don't abandon the Weber just yet - it will give you plenty of poke, more than enough if this is the first seven you've driven. It will
also be easier to find a tuner who knows what he's doing (always a problem with bike carbs).
As said above - you should have a thin gasket, a 10mm thick hard plastic heat insulator, another thin gasket, then the carb itself. The auto-choke is
easily removed and manual conversions are quite easy to fit - I would keep the choke though, as you'll need it on cold mornings, especially if
your carb has been tuned properly and isn't running too rich! This removes a chunk of metal off the side of the carb, and simplifies your
coolant plumbing immensely (2 less pipe connections to worry about).
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 09:21 PM |
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Hi, you may have a later sierra cam cover theyre different to the early cortina/capri/transit ones.
the early ones are shaped to miss the choke housing.
also the later ones have a wide gasket face early ones are narrow.
hope this helps
Ray
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mkben.21
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 09:34 PM |
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awsome thanks guys. I'd love to put bike carbs on, but this is a joint car with my dad and he's not keen on spending the money on them,
and a new bonnet to get rid of the hole. I did buy this carb and manifold however. Its going to be a stepping stone towards bike carbs to be
honest.
I havent got a plastic spacer no. but i'd need to raise it an inch before i'd have enough clearance. would a manual choke save some space?
need about 10mm less depth i think.
also wheres the best place to get that spacer and gaskets?
Thanks Again
Ben
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 10:00 PM |
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My manual choke is pretty much the same size as the auto one. If your cam cover hasn't got an indentation to clear the carb, then it's got
to be worth trying to pick one up at a scrappy.
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AndyGT
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| posted on 1/7/10 at 10:12 PM |
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The true locost spirit is to run it without the auto-choke unit, plus they rarely work right!!
As others said, you can start the car without a choke. I have previously run a car without a choke for 3 years which was used on icy cold mornings.
It starts fine if you give it too full strokes of the accelerator pedal and then when it tries to fire up, GENTLY pump the accelerator pedal about 1cm
to caress it into starting. On milder spring mornings the car always started fine on just 2 strokes of the pedal.
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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James
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| posted on 2/7/10 at 01:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AndyGT
The true locost spirit is to run it without the auto-choke unit, plus they rarely work right!!
The true Locost spirit is to make the indentation yourself!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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mkben.21
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| posted on 3/7/10 at 08:15 PM |
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I think i'll run it without the choke for now and see how it goes. Do i really need that insulator between carb and manifold tho?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/7/10 at 08:39 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mkben.21
Do i really need that insulator between carb and manifold tho?
It is recommended - it limits the amount of heat travelling between the hot engine block & manifold up into the carb. If the carb gets too warm
it can mess up the fuel mixture.
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