ali f27
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 09:48 PM |
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water leak
Hi my sons mg zr leaking water from behind cam belt cover will that be water pump is it driven off cam belt
Regards ali
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rayward
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 09:53 PM |
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k series engine ?? if so more than likely head gasket
hth
Ray
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MikeR
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:02 PM |
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thougth some of the 'k' series engines had a problem with coolent pipes corroding (may just be the MGF that does this).
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matty h
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:05 PM |
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Water pumps are behind the timing belt and I have heard of them leaking may as we do the belt at the same time.Would not of thought that it was the
head gasket as this normally goes between cylinders.
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perksy
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
thougth some of the 'k' series engines had a problem with coolent pipes corroding (may just be the MGF that does this).
Beleive this is the coolant pipes that run under the floor on the MGF
Had one of these once and you can still see the marks on the garage wall where i used to bang my head against it...
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adithorp
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:31 PM |
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Almost certainly the water pump (Although there is a VERY small chance the leak is from the head gasket). As already said do the cam belt and
tensioner at the same time (has to come off anyway). Beware of using it as K series soon do the head gasket if run with low water level.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:41 PM |
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Water pump or corner of inlet manifold gasket adjacent to the cam cover --- the latter is very common.
If it is the water pump do the cambelt at the same time ------ easy job.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/12/10 at 10:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rayward
k series engine ?? if so more than likely head gasket
hth
Ray
No the odds of it being the head gasket are about 10,000 to 1
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/12/10 at 09:41 PM |
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Rover K 16 Cam Belt Change Procedure
Special Tools ---- All Optional but recommended
Camshaft Locking Tool - Rover K16 Laser Tools 2626 ---- Should cost less than £5.00 ---
See http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=315&item=1407
13mm Flex head socket spanner
See http://www.ldemporium.co.uk/6pc-metric-double-flex-socket-spanner-set-p-2167.html
Notes:
(1) Post year 2000 engines use a slightly wider cam belt and an improved cam belt tensioner, make 100% sure you have the correct parts before
starting.
(2) First step is slacken the bottom pulley first using the starter motor as an impact driver. Once the bolt is slack the pulley bolt should then be
lightly re-tightened after first ensuring the the drive flat of pulley is correctly located.
(3) The engine will have to be jacked up under the sump ---- the steel sumps used on some versions of the K series are paper thin make sure the jack
is well padded.
(4) For a improved access to the front of the engine unbolt the power steering pipe support P Clip from the righr inner front wing.
(5) The alternator drive belt tensioner and power steering belt tensioners have to be rotated and locked with a suitable pin a small allen key
works well for this.
(6) The alternator belt tensioner has a 13mm hex head but it is made of soft alloy and easily rounded. As space is restricted a 13mm flex socket
spanner makes rotating the adjuster much easier.
(7) The right lower engine mounts requires to be removed --- to aid reassembly on removal take care to identify each bolt they are removed as two
different threads are employed in the assembly and are several different lengths.
(8) The bottom timing mark is very difficult to make out, it is easier to line up the mark on the two top pulleys first, then check the bottom marks.
The timing marks are lined up at 1/2 stroke. The Laser cam shaft locking tool can then be inserted.
(9) The cambelt is slipped off from the bottom sproket first after removal of the outer pulley and cam belt tensioner.
(10) On reassembly the cam belt is put over the top sprockets then slipped over the bottom sprocket.
(11) Take great care when replacing the outer pulley to ensure it locates correctly on the crankshaft D flat --- NB for security use a a drop or
two of loctite on the bolt and outer pulley.
(12) The later type cam belt tensioner is set by aligning the pointer of the spring with the notch on the tensioner pointer.
(13) Rotate the engine two full turns by hand then re-align the timing marks and check the timing marks and that the bottom pulley is correctly
fitted.
[Edited on 9/12/10 by britishtrident]
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