myke pocock
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 07:31 PM |
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Bike Carbs onto x flow
Has anyone fitted bike carbs onto a x flow? Mines a standard 1300 and I was planning a DGAV and mild road cam but may fancy the bike carb route now. I
already have bike carbs on my Skoda Estelle trials car so know my way around them a bit.
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tul214
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 07:47 PM |
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Mr Jenkins
here
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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rayward
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 07:50 PM |
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me too.
Ray
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myke pocock
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 08:27 PM |
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Any suggestions about the most suitable carbs for a 1300? I have Honda Fireblade carbs on my 1289cc Skoda but Daddy Bogg said that they were not
exactly the best for setting up as the needles are adjusted by a circlip I think and its not the optimum solution. I think they are Keihin if memory
serves me OK.
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whitestu
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 08:37 PM |
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ZX6R should be suitable, and cheap.
Needles are either adjustable by circlip or not at all AFAIK.
Having adjustable needles on mine made setting them up much easier.
Stu
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alfas
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| posted on 16/7/11 at 08:17 AM |
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on jenkins homepage under conclusion is written:
"Although the power is not noticeably higher, it comes in more smoothly and from a lower engine speed, so is much more usable"
as power-gain is the major reason for a conversion i wonder if it makes sence to do all this work for nearly nothing?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/7/11 at 08:39 AM |
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I could re-write that to say "you get a noticeable bit of extra power, and you also get it over a much broader rev band"
With the Weber 32/36 DGV carb I had previously, the power didn't really come on until I was well over 3000rpm - now I get smooth power from 1500
right up to 6500 (possibly higher, but I set the rev limit to 6500!). I'm not changing gear all the time to keep the revs high.
If I did some porting and flow work on the head I could get a lot more from the carbs - at the moment it's not had a lot of work done, apart
from port matching.
The usability improvements cannot be underestimated - it was really easy to balance the carbs and to get a steady idle at 800rpm. They have also
stayed in tune over several years, which is more than can be said for some others! I'm sure that things will improve even more once I save up
my pennies and get the car to a rolling road for some fine tuning (the engine's very close, but not yet perfect).
Oh - the 4-way induction roar is like music to my ears, too! 
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alfas
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| posted on 16/7/11 at 09:00 AM |
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i think the bike carb thing is good for people who have the skills and tools to fabricate things like intake manifolds, linkages etc.
i´m running always sidedraught webers since years which are easy to balance (i do it myselves), some are loosing the balance over a shorter period
than others but normally i do it once b4 the season starts and thats it until the end of the season.
the thing with webers is: you can buy manifolds of the shelf for around 120pound, a pair of functionable webers, already basically jetted for your
engine, could be sourced 2nd hand for120-150pound...dellortos are a bit cheaper, solex even more cheaper.
and its more or less a bolt-on job, done on a saturday afternoon. also less trouble with noise-level (trackday).
[Edited on 16/7/11 by alfas]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/7/11 at 09:07 AM |
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For me, bike carbs were cheaper than sidedraft ones! It's horses for courses, I guess. If you can get the sidedrafts at an acceptable price
then that's probably a good way to go.
In the Wallage x-flow tuning book he actually states that if you're only looking for a modest tune-up then the Weber 32/36 DGV twin-choke
downdraft carb is probably the best option for most people - easy to find manifolds, many small tuning shops know how to tune them, spares readily
available, and so on.
Good luck, whichever way you go! 
[Edited on 16/7/11 by David Jenkins]
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