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Author: Subject: engine no start
beaver34

posted on 18/4/12 at 08:35 PM Reply With Quote
engine no start

hi all,

my engine wont start, its a new build but has run before in the car running omex 600 and i have a basemap on the ecu

i have map3000 and a laptop plugged in connected live to the ecu, have fuel to the rail and spark at the plugs but no starting

any ideas what to be looking at next?

thanks for anyhelp

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theduck

posted on 18/4/12 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
Compression or timing
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jossey

posted on 18/4/12 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
+1 timing....





Thanks



David Johnson

Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.

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beaver34

posted on 18/4/12 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
Swapped leads over on coil as I got a bang which from experience is due to wires being wrong to coil, it ran for afew seconds

Think have a battery issue anyway as its slow to crank over compression and timing are all good

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big-vee-twin

posted on 18/4/12 at 10:08 PM Reply With Quote
Check your crank sensor, also if it works similar to megasquirt the engine has to be spinning at 300rpm before the ecu starts the engine, if your battery is not spinning the motor fast enough that may be your issue.





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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beaver34

posted on 18/4/12 at 10:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big-vee-twin
Check your crank sensor, also if it works similar to megasquirt the engine has to be spinning at 300rpm before the ecu starts the engine, if your battery is not spinning the motor fast enough that may be your issue.


I think that's the issue the battery,

It has 13v but drops off quick when cranking slowing the engine

Not sure if it was earth issue? How do I check and see if the earths are good enough?

Thanks

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tom@TCS

posted on 18/4/12 at 11:39 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, im a noob to the site but not to standalone ecu's

most standalones will still be alive and capable of starting the car down to about 9.5-10v. Battery is easy to try but if that doesnt fix it then there are a few checks you then need to do.

With map3000 live on your screen check your live readings and see what rpm the ecu is seeing. There will be a set 'running' rpm number in the map. i.e you tell it what rpm the ecu should think its now not cranking and is running. I usually set these to around 450 rpm but that depends on the engine.

What you need to check is that if your ecu is seeing the trigger pattern and locking on to it. More often than not, non starting issues with ecu installs come down to that.

If you can confirm that this is correct then if you can get your hands on a noid light to check for an injector pulse then that would be your next test. The injectors should all be sharing a common live and the ecu pulses earth to trigger them so also check that you have 12v + at each injector.

hope this helps





www.trackclassicsports.co.uk

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big-vee-twin

posted on 19/4/12 at 07:48 AM Reply With Quote
Nice one Tom and welcome. If you plug your Laptop into the ECU and then look at the rev counter you will see if your crank sensor is working i.e it shows an rpm (after you have sorted your battery). You will see how fast the starter is turning the engine then set the setting correctly as Tom says, its 300rpm in MS.


If you havent got noid light you can do it the old fashoined way by putting a screwdriver onto the body of the injector put your ear on the other end and listen to it clicking, this or the light will not confirm the spray pattern is ok though.





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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beaver34

posted on 19/4/12 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tom@TCS
Hi, im a noob to the site but not to standalone ecu's

most standalones will still be alive and capable of starting the car down to about 9.5-10v. Battery is easy to try but if that doesnt fix it then there are a few checks you then need to do.

With map3000 live on your screen check your live readings and see what rpm the ecu is seeing. There will be a set 'running' rpm number in the map. i.e you tell it what rpm the ecu should think its now not cranking and is running. I usually set these to around 450 rpm but that depends on the engine.

What you need to check is that if your ecu is seeing the trigger pattern and locking on to it. More often than not, non starting issues with ecu installs come down to that.

If you can confirm that this is correct then if you can get your hands on a noid light to check for an injector pulse then that would be your next test. The injectors should all be sharing a common live and the ecu pulses earth to trigger them so also check that you have 12v + at each injector.

hope this helps


hi tom,

thanks for your reply,

the map3000 is seeing engine rpm but its around 200, the start sync is on under cranking, ive checked injectors that are getting 12v

going to look at the earths and fit bigger battery for now and see how i get on

its dropping to 8volts under cranking which i would presume is why it is not firing

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