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Author: Subject: Difference between DCOM and DCOE carbs?
StuartA

posted on 2/10/02 at 04:05 PM Reply With Quote
Difference between DCOM and DCOE carbs?

Does anyone know the difference between Webber DCOM and DCOE carbs. The DCOEs seem to be the common ones, but we have a pair of DCOMs (picked up cheap on ebay).
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JohnFol

posted on 3/10/02 at 08:09 AM Reply With Quote
I would guess one is (M)anual choke and the other is (E)lectric choke.
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StuartA

posted on 3/10/02 at 11:05 AM Reply With Quote
That sounds very plausible.. anyone know where I might be able to confirm that?
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JohnFol

posted on 3/10/02 at 11:13 AM Reply With Quote
But I have also heard that one is the part originally supplied on vehicles, and the other is the after market equivalent. Means garages know it's not under their warranty. (bit like prescribed and non prescribed drugs having different brand names)
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Jon Ison

posted on 3/10/02 at 05:06 PM Reply With Quote
don't know the difference, but DCOE's don't have electric chokes, there cable 4 sure...

oh and defo not E= economy..lol






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JohnFol

posted on 4/10/02 at 07:25 AM Reply With Quote
Here's a refernce to the subject
http://www.jsoclub.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1677&page=2

Not that easy to understand, but the 8th entry asks the question, but the answer is "I suppose that the dcoe are more recent therefore more reliable".

Also found that the 'E' may mean die cast ..

However the most detailed answer (and probably correct is)

"WEBER 40 DCOE: float in brass and pump system has integrated return.
WEBER 40 DCOM: float in plastic and exterior return pumps
Fuel regulation is identical"

If anyone speaks better French than me, the link is http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&threadm=kzhU3.2048%24HC5.7540807%40nnrp1.proxad.net&rnum=2&prev=/groups%3Fq%3D%252Bdc om%2B%252Bdcoe%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3DkzhU3.2048%2524HC5.7540807%2540nnrp1.proxad.net%26rnum%3D2

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StuartA

posted on 4/10/02 at 11:12 AM Reply With Quote
We found that post too (the French one)... daft question but how can you have a brass float?

Thanks for all your help, I guess we will just have to try them and if we have no luck splash out on a pair of DCOEs

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David Jenkins

posted on 4/10/02 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
We found that post too (the French one)... daft question but how can you have a brass float?


Assuming that this isn't a facetious comment... it's a little can made of thin brass sheet - weight of petrol displaced greater than the weight of the float, so it floats.

David

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StuartA

posted on 4/10/02 at 12:29 PM Reply With Quote
I knew the explanation had to be a simple one! Always nice to know these things
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johnston

posted on 4/10/02 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
well if they can make boats out of concrete why was a brass float so wrong sounding????






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bsilly

posted on 4/10/02 at 08:08 PM Reply With Quote
concrete boat!! thats supposed to be a secret err mmm. how did you hear about it. local weber dealers will reveal all about dcoe/dcom
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johnston

posted on 5/10/02 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
theyre actually quite common the hull is made by by pouring concrete into a mould just






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tockwell

posted on 12/10/02 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
did you people ever find out most about DCOMs

and can the trumpets from DCOEs fit

as i am having problems getting trumpets for DCOM

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JohnFol

posted on 12/10/02 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
I don't think they will. Have a look at this page. There is aa sales email address that might be worth a try
http://www.carbs.net/Weber/stacks.asp

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JohnFol

posted on 12/10/02 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
errr, didn't we agree the difference is in the concreate float and external pump . .. .
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Alan B

posted on 13/10/02 at 12:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
theyre actually quite common the hull is made by by pouring concrete into a mould just



Hmmm...all the ones I've ever seen were made by building a skeleton of reinforcing bar and chicken wire and then "plastering" it with trowel loads on of concrete.

(not implying that you are wrong of course, just sharing my experience )

Often called "ferrocement" construction.

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johnston

posted on 13/10/02 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
probably do that for smaller ones or sumit

i remember as a kidd a boat that used to sail up and down the bann the guy got it as a bare hull for next to nothin, there was a slight kink in it where the mould shiffted b4 it had all hardened but unless u were told bought it u would never had known






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MrFluffy

posted on 13/10/02 at 08:34 PM Reply With Quote
I remember my technology teacher at school making a concrete barge using a mould, trouble is they went to launch it and didnt support it properly in the middle and it cracked when it was in midair, and collapsed in the canal, and entangled him in the rigging and nearly drowned him!

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jollygreengiant

posted on 18/10/02 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
DCOE's & economy

on a useful note it can be quite wrong to say that they use a lot of fuel. The trick is to set them up properly and the adjust your driving style. I used to run a home brewed Mk1 cortina (yeh I know But don't start laughing yet) engine was 1640cc kent xflow 711m block.
lotus twink pistons (powermax) with the pistons machined flat and the block machined down to give 11:1 c.r.
all moving parts lightened & balanced.
head was full race and also flat.
Cam shaft was 1/2 race and valve train was kept under control by a Piper Ladder Rocker box.
Flywheel was machined down to half weight also (better pick-up & acceleration).
Lotus twincam Distributor with electronic trigger firing a high energy ignition system. All this was Fueled by twin 40 DCOE's.
Never did get any rolling road figures - but - 30 MPG at 80mph and about 20mpg round town.
As for go well Top end 140 & faster than 2.8i capri on acceleration 30mph upwards.

The trick to getting ecconomy is to remember that when you move the throttle pedal you get not 1 or maybe 2 squirts of petrol but you get FOUR. The trick for economy is to gear the car for flat out road use and control your speed with the gearstick not the accelerator!.

Big down side was 20k to a gearbox rebuild ( bearings couln't take it). in the end I could remove/strip/rebuild /refit gearbox in 1.5 hrs (no ramp or pit)

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