jps
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| posted on 8/4/16 at 03:24 PM |
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Pinto recommissioning - what to do?
Here's my situation - I have a 1.6 Pinto, and Type 3 4-speed gearbox which I will use on my Haynes (at least as the first engine). I took it out
of my donor Sierra roughly 3 years ago - and have not touched it since. The sump was drained before removal (and the gearbox oil all ran out during
removal too - whoops). The odometer was showing 98k, and it seems that is genuine mileage.
I am now at the stage where I can work on 'recommissioning' the engine and gearbox - so I can fit it to my build.
Both engine and gearbox were running fine when I bought the donor - and as such I am not expecting to completely strip and rebuild them. The
only modification I expect to make is to fit a shortened sump, which I have already bought, and perhaps use some bike carbs (separate issue for now I
think though?).
Other than the usual 'servicing' activity the Haynes manual will tell me about - and cleaning up the metalwork/painting it all a nice
colour - what sort of work should I be doing? Or - where should I look for advice to answer that question?
(PS - no 'swap it for a Duratec / Zetec / BEC' comments please! It's Pinto and carbs for me - for now anyway!)
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JacksAvon
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| posted on 8/4/16 at 04:03 PM |
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On the basis that you have said "Pinto and carbs for me - for now anyway"
New plugs, leads, oil, filter,check out the serviceability of the sparks and leave it at that.
You know you will change it for more shiny or bhp, so just make it serviceable and leave it at that.
As for advice, this is the place to be on nearly any engine that will fit in a 7 and some that will not.
The sickness started in 2001 with a Robin Hood 3A, Prelit Westy,Tiger Cub, Tiger Avon, Tiger R6, 16v Mini, Sylva Fury Fireblade, Westfield Sei,
Mallock Mk11, Fireblade Locost, Tiger Avon, Procomp LA Gold, Mk26 Mallock...........and now a Mk18 Mallock.....LR750, Vandiemen FX02, 1300 Locost
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hkp57
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| posted on 8/4/16 at 04:11 PM |
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provided its not been sitting in a really damp shed or garage there is not really much you should need to do.
As you are changing the sump you will get a good look inside at the bottom end, while it is open turn it over by hand and look at the bottom of the
bores for signs of damage.
look carefully in the bottom of the old sump for metal fragments.
Change the timing belt and while there change the water pump as they are cheap.
with the water pump out and the thermostat out flush all the water galleries out with a hose until it runs clean.
Take the cam cover off and check for wear on the lobes
Give the cam i good coat of clean oil before covering it all up again.
Once in the car turn it over without a spark to get oil pressure, then add spark.
Before bolting it to the gearbox put on a new clutch and release bearing, nothing worse than finishing a build then having clutch problems and taking
it all out.
If you are no opening the box for a look just add fresh oil and off you go to the races 
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 8/4/16 at 05:22 PM |
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I would be inclined to chuck some redex or similar down the bores to soak the rings, and a few days later a few squirts of oil. Ideally before you
take the sump off.
Worth having a look at the crank bearings if you have any suspicions.
Otherwise as others have said.
BTW I would put a squirt of oil down the bores, leave the plugs out and spin the engine up to get oil pressure up. Then pop the plugs in, connect up
and off you go.
Maybe do a radflush once running.
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perksy
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| posted on 8/4/16 at 07:40 PM |
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Useful info above
All I'd add is it would be good to check the spray bar and make sure it isn't blocked
Whatever you do don't just turn it over on the starter and run it before checking the rings are free and the sump isn't full of crap
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