Paul (Notts)
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 posted on 10/3/05 at 08:38 PM |
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Crank shaft pully removal
How do you get the bolt in the end of the crank shaft to turn, in order to remove the pully.
Ive made a bracket for the other end of the crank so it cant turn but the bolt wont budge.
I should turn it anticlockwise ?
PS its a rover V8.
Do I just need to buy a bigger socket sset bar to get more force?
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stevebubs
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| posted on 10/3/05 at 08:40 PM |
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2 foot breaker bar did it for me on the crossflow, but I'd be wary about repeating the performance and warping the crank.
Have you got an impact driver?
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need4speed
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| posted on 10/3/05 at 08:42 PM |
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I undid mine with a few quick blows of the good old hammer on the end of a tommy bar.
The other answer is yes it anticlock wise (normal undo)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/3/05 at 08:44 PM |
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Check there is no lock tab ? Yes it should be a standard RH thread
Usual method is jab of the starter motor -- works every time but if you have the engine out either a pneumatic impact wrench or a decent flogging
spanner.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 10/3/05 at 08:55 PM |
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To get the bolt on the end of a crank to budge, i've know it necessary to use a T bar and 4 foot of pipe, not a rover V8 but rover car.
It also needed a tool made to hold the pulley end of the crank.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/3/05 at 11:07 PM |
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impact wrench is a must have tool You dont even need to make a bracket just hold it with one hand and buzz it with the other, it comes of in a
second or 2..
Striped a live axle tonight in 15 mins...
Mind you went and choped the lead of on my brand new grinder doh !
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 11/3/05 at 07:21 PM |
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rover 216 k series, we had to take the starter motor off and lock the flywheel with a crowbar and then 3 feet of breaker bar on the other end. air
impact wrench wouldn't touch it, we tried two a snap on one and a sip one, not a sausage.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 11/3/05 at 07:49 PM |
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got a 1in drive air wrench, yet to be defeated but needs a good air supply. have found in the past if a 1/2 wrench will not shift a nut try oiling it
with air motor oil, this gives a temporary boost and will often move an otherwise tight fitting.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 11/3/05 at 08:43 PM |
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A good air line system should have one outlet with an auto oil (not very locost) for running air tools.
Oil has 2 effects
1 it reduces wear in the tool.
2 it helps seal the pistons etc. insdie the tool, preventing air leaking, so the works better.
If in dought oil every day before use.
(don't use oil with tyre inflators orair lances though)
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Danozeman
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| posted on 12/3/05 at 09:52 AM |
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I usually use a 1/2 air wrench. Ive had to use the inch beast before when that still didnt do it so had a torque convertor on a f'ing great
bar!! Throuble is the more force u put on it with a bar the more the crank winds up.. Ive known ppl to put it in gear and have someone with there
foot on the brake while they undo it with a bar. It in turn got the bolt out but wound the box up and broke it.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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clbarclay
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| posted on 12/3/05 at 12:05 PM |
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Good (or at least better designed in some areas) engines like the honda 1.6 as fitted to rovers etc. have holes drilled on the end of the pulley. this
means that a bar with 2 lugs welded on it can be used to hold the pulley.
Its a good job too, because the wind up in that particular honda engine/gearbox is unbelivable.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 12/3/05 at 06:42 PM |
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Ford 1.8 diesel crankshaft pulley bolts are mega tight. I.I.R.C. the Ford tool locates on the pulley bolt and the engine rotated so that the tool can
be bolted to the cylinder block, the starter is then removed and a tool with a rotating gear that engages with the flywheel ring gear is bolted in
place. The outer end of the tool is then turned which in turn rotates the flywheel/crankshaft which in turn undoes the pulley bolt.obviously the tool
works like a torque convertor, it may be possible to make a similar tool to fit the Rover engine if all else fails. H.T.H.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 13/3/05 at 10:45 AM |
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Rusty nuts its them engine i was mostly talking about. I made up a tool to bolt to the aux belt pulley flange and jam against the chassis rail.
Works a treat.. Unless its an old dog with rusty chassis rails..
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 08:14 PM |
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhh........
got a 2 foot breaker, made a bracket to hold the flywheel end tight and ....
The bl**dy socket cracked in three places.
Cheep tools...
Ay sugestions on a good make just to buy one socket
This bolt is slowing things down just when I have two weeks of work comming up...
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P38Kid
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| posted on 16/3/05 at 12:05 AM |
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cheap easy
I drove mine over to the garage where they do that kind of work and asked them to pop it loose for me. They put an air impact on it, hit it twice and
loosened right up. They didn't charge me and I was on my way.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/3/05 at 08:40 AM |
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You really need a 3/4" drive socket set ----- you are just a bit too far away to borrow mine .
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/3/05 at 08:57 AM |
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The crank pulley bolt on the Vauxhall XE engine is tightened to 250nm followed by 70 degree angle tightening!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I made a VERY strong bar, with a machined ring on the end to bolt to the 6 bolts that hold the outer pulley to the inner one, then located that on the
chassis of my grasser and used a 4 foot bar to shift the bolt. Yep, broke several sockets, now have a Britool impact socket for the job now (not easy
to get as it is a big male torx head bolt!!)
With the engine out of the car, I think an Air Impact Wrench would be your only chance.
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James
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| posted on 18/3/05 at 11:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul (Notts)
ahhhhhhhhhhhhh........
got a 2 foot breaker, made a bracket to hold the flywheel end tight and ....
The bl**dy socket cracked in three places.
Cheep tools...
Ay sugestions on a good make just to buy one socket
This bolt is slowing things down just when I have two weeks of work comming up...
Get a Teng one. Lovely quality and the shop should exchange it if it breaks.
My Sierra rear hub nuts needed 600lbs/ft to get off. A 0.5inch socket was enough- and that was made by Laser too who I'd imagine aren't up
to much. It was air impact type though.
HTH,
James
[Edited on 18/3/05 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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NS Dev
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| posted on 18/3/05 at 12:47 PM |
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how do you know they needed 600 lbft???????? (also like to see the 1/2" drive bar that can take that torque!!!!)
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clbarclay
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| posted on 18/3/05 at 01:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul (Notts)
Ay sugestions on a good make just to buy one socket
A quick list, not definative.
Snap on (if you have that much money)
Britool
Elora
Teng (as james mentioned)
Signet (I've given signet 3/8 sockets some stick)
Beta
Facom
As well as any rusty tools that say witworth on them, but then there probably not the right size.
Old makes like bedford can take some abuse as well.
[Edited on 18/3/05 by clbarclay]
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