Humbug
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 10:53 AM |
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How can I shorten the throw of the clutch pedal?
I've got a Rover 1.4 K-series, Type 9 gearbox, ford clutch arm, Mexico clutch cable and Stuart Taylor pedal box with a bottom-pivot clutch
pedal.
The problem is that I have got the clutch cable attached pretty much at the end of the pedal arm (furthest from the pivot) and it still needs the
whole of the pedal travel to engage/disengage the clutch. Foot off, the pedal now comes further back than vertical, and fully pressed, it hits the
footwell. Even then, it grinds a bit, especially when the engine and box are cold.
Is there some way I can reduce the throw of the pedal, i.e. to pull the cable more for a given travel of the pedal? As I mentioned, the cable is
joined at the end of the pedal shaft, so there's no more room.
The only things I can think of are:
1. Move the pedal pivot point - can't see how to do that without replacing the whole pedal box
2. putting a pulley in the system between the footwell and the pedal - but how?
3. drilling the clutch arm to move the cable at the other end closer to the pivot point of the arm... but the clutch arm is bloody hard metal!
Any ideas, chaps?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 11:08 AM |
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Couple of things that may help I presume the clutch adjustment is correct? not too much slack? it sound overadjusted . Is engine at correct idle
speed ?, a high idle speed can cause these symptoms which could explain why it's worse when cold. Also try putting foot on clutch and wait a
second or so before putting it into gear , gives everything time to slow down .Oil leak onto clutch? .causing clutch to drag ? I believe the pedal
box is similar to the Luego one n my car . Moving the pivot point would be difficult It may just be possible to extend the lower section of pedal to
give more throw ?
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Humbug
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 11:12 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Couple of things that may help I presume the clutch adjustment is correct? not too much slack? it sound overadjusted . Is engine at correct idle
speed ?, a high idle speed can cause these symptoms which could explain why it's worse when cold. Also try putting foot on clutch and wait a
second or so before putting it into gear , gives everything time to slow down .Oil leak onto clutch? .causing clutch to drag ? I believe the pedal
box is similar to the Luego one n my car . Moving the pivot point would be difficult It may just be possible to extend the lower section of pedal to
give more throw ?
Idling is fine; there is little or no slack in the cable - I have tried adjusting to both extremes; no oil leak that I can see; not sure if there is
any floor clearance to extend the pedal...
Thanks for the suggestions, anyway
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 11:12 AM |
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Problem is if you redrill the clutch fork the cable alignment will be a mile out, this will cause a very stiff sticky movement and also mean the cable
will have a short life.
You might be able to get enough cable movement by adding a quadrant to the pedal so the cable is always pulled at constant radius.
The other alternative is of course a hydraulic clutch conversion.
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Mix
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 11:47 AM |
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How about putting in a lever to operate the clutch fork either by a rod or cable and then attaching the cable from the pedal closer to the pivot point
of the lever??
Mick
[Edited on 14/12/05 by Mix]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
How about putting in a lever to operate the clutch fork either by a rod or cable and then attaching the cable from the pedal closer to the pivot point
of the lever??
Mick
[Edited on 14/12/05 by Mix]
MG did that back in the dark ages on the 1940s/50s TD and TF the lever pivot was mounted on the side of the sump. As I recall it didn't give
very smooth clutch operation.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 01:23 PM |
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There are a number of different plastic clutch qudrants that are available for the Ford Pedal Box and IIRC the Yellow one gives the most cable
movement .
Also make sure that the cam is engaging on the quadrant when there is no pressure on the pedal.
regards
Keith
Suffolk
[Edited on 14/12/05 by Schrodinger]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 01:45 PM |
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Suspect the ST pedal box doesn't use a quadrant
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 06:02 PM |
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Just some thoughts...
What clutch have you fitted?
Is it a Ford one that has had to be adapted to the Rover engine or vice-versa?
What condition is the clutch itself in? - especially the clutch actuating fingers?. Is it possible at all, that these have worn due to lack of slack
in cable and hence been subject to constant contact with the thrust bearing?
This could cause them to wear, losing their 'springiness' and to effectively collapse under foot pressure rather than actuate the clutch
plate fully.
Have you trapped the clutch cable nipple in the actuating arm with a suitable sized nut and bolt to stop it slipping out?
Is the eye of the clutch cable attached directly to the clutch pedal or via means of a clevis pin etc?
How tall are you? Is there enough legroom and adjustment available in the threaded push rods of the brake cylinders to allow the pedal box to be moved
slightly further away the bulkhead? (to increase arc of travel of clutch pedal before fouling bulkhead)
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