samwilliams
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Browser
Just so we've got a baseline, can you tell us the following:
(1) How long since the kit was built?
(2) Was the engine reconditioned or just painted and lobbed in?
(3) Is the carburettor original and has it ever been overhauled?
(4) Have you ever had the engine set up professionally or has is just 'run OK' up until now?
1. I believe it was built in 1991
2. The previous owner suggested that it had been rebuilt about 5,000 miles ago (there's only 8,500 on the clock as it is)
3. I don't know about the carburettor
4. It had been set up on a rolling road a long time ago, but had been pretty much left standing for a year when I got it and, although it was running
pretty well, could have benefitted from a proper set-up.
Since I bought it (in october I think), it has gradually deteriorated, although only slightly, until the last week (particularly since this weekend),
when it suddenly got significantly worse.
Sam
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:25 PM |
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Can you post some pics Sam or set yourself a photo archive up. General pic of car, engine bay then some details shots of dizzy, plug leads, coil,
carb, fuel lines and filters etc. I think these will help.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:29 PM |
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I think you need practical help - because modern cars don't need constant attention these days newbies have a bigger hill to climb.
From your description you have two problems, the short term one is that something minor is wrong most likely a fuel supply problem or blocked jet --
but before that can can fixed the ignition should be checked over properly particularly if it has points ignition.
The other longer term problem - the occaisional popping back through the carb I suspect is due to the change in the airfilter arangements from the
donor car and may require a change in carb jetting,
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:29 PM |
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I had a quick look through the answers above and one thing came to mind...
...how long had the car been sitting idle? Could you have water/dirt/stale petrol coming into the engine?
Modern petrol goes off within a month or so.
I'd be tempted to see what a dose of fresh clean petrol would do...
David
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samwilliams
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:34 PM |
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In terms of problems being related to it not doing anything for a year. It has done just under 1000 miles since I got it, and only recently the
problems have started to appear/get bad. Would I be correct in thinking that that would suggest that the popping being due to incorrect jets, and
other fundamental problems with the stuff in the car (when working and set-up correctly) was not the problem?
I'm getting a friend of mine who knows a bit more than me (well, probably a lot more, but that doesn't say a lot), so hopefully will get
somewhere, or at least find out a bit more. Will also take some pictures of everything and stick them in my photo archive.
Thanks
Sam
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:34 PM |
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To check the earth
With the engine running at fast idle put a digital volt meter between a clean part of the engine block/head and battery negative termminal --- if
you get a voltage reading more than about 0.2v then the earthing isn't good enough.
[Edited on 18/1/06 by britishtrident]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by samwilliams
In terms of problems being related to it not doing anything for a year. It has done just under 1000 miles since I got it, and only recently the
problems have started to appear/get bad.
It does suggest that something's worn out, got stuck, come loose, or similar. Probably not the petrol after all those miles, unless
you've filled up at a really dodgy garage!
I'll withdraw my oar, and leave you to the gurus... 
David
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samwilliams
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:48 PM |
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Anyway, I'm leaving work now to go and try and sort it. Will be interested to see if sorting the vacuum advance solves it, as that certainly
sounds as though it's not working right.
Hopefully will have at least more information, if not a solution (nothing wrong with being hopeful!), tomorrow. Bet you're all looking forward
to that one!
Thanks
Sam
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Peteff
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 04:16 PM |
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I'd start with a set of points, plugs, leads distributor cap and a condenser or get some electronic ignition sorted out. That rotor arm looks
burnt. Then look at the fuel side of things.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 04:22 PM |
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And, if the dizzy's knackered, a Bosch electronic dizzy from a Valencia engine (don't forget the connector!). I believe that a Mk3 Escort
is the best source... but please correct me if I'm wrong about the donor, everyone!
David
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samwilliams
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 06:24 PM |
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Well, we managed to get it running a huge amount better, and I feel silly as it was very straight forward to fix. Having said that, it just proves the
point that you need to know what to look for, and look at the obvious things first!
Essentially, we pulled the leads of the spark plugs, and one of them was quite badly corroded. Just scraped that off, and it ran a huge amount better.
It may well be that this was caused by something else, and the problem will return, but at least it's fixed it in the short term.
Thanks for all your help. At least it's given me a good list of things to work through next time something goes wrong (which it undoubtedly
will!). Still a little confused about the vacuum advance not seeming right, so will look into that further.
As for the valencia distributor swap thing, I had thought of that. I seem to remember there was a link posted a while ago to something that was
useful, so will look for that.
Which models do you get them from? What is it, other than the distributor itself, that you need to replace? Do you need to change the coil? What about
the leads?
Thanks
Sam
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 08:55 PM |
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Corrosion on a plug terminnal explain it --- plug leads transmit sweet f a current its all voltage even on an original xflow you are talking 15,000
volts. the plug leads are designed have a ressistance of about 30,000 ohms per foot so a little corrosion won't even be noticed.
More likely you need a new set of plug leads because the carbon filaments inside it are broken and also a new dizzie cap -- and get the points
looked at they really need replaced every 5,000 miles.
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Browser
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 11:28 PM |
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Better still, bin the crossflow and fit a Zetec
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DarrenW
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 12:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Browser
Better still, bin the crossflow and fit a Zetec
and before the other nuts decide to jump in here - please dont!!!!!
(ie no we dont all want a bike engine!!! )
(Sorry Browser - didnt mean you. Zetec is good option).
[Edited on 19/1/06 by DarrenW]
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Browser
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 11:45 AM |
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What'ryou talkin' about, a Zetec isn't a bike engine?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 11:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by samwilliams
As for the valencia distributor swap thing, I had thought of that. I seem to remember there was a link posted a while ago to something that was
useful, so will look for that.
Which models do you get them from? What is it, other than the distributor itself, that you need to replace? Do you need to change the coil? What about
the leads?
I'm glad you're sorted!
Changing the dizzy is easy - I Googled some instructions
here, courtesy of the Locust crowd.
I strongly urge you to remember the connecting lead - you won't get one anywhere else! Get the coil from the donor as well.
Also it's worth unscrewing the electronic unit off the side of the dizzy, cleaning up the mating faces of each part, and re-fitting them with
some heatsink compound between them. Overheating due to lack of a heatsink was a common cause of failure.
Have fun!
David
PS: The new dizzy will give you a slightly better spark, but the biggest benefit is high reliability and settings that stay where you put them.
[Edited on 19/1/06 by David Jenkins]
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samwilliams
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 01:45 PM |
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Thanks for that link. I think that's the one I'd seen before, and was going to have a search back for it. One thing that's not
entirely clear from the page is actually which cars you can get it from.
It mentiones the mk4 1300 escort, then also mentions fiesta 1.4, orion etc. What years are these from? Is there any easy way to check if it's
the right one?
Thanks
Sam
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 02:05 PM |
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Not sure - I got mine from the Escort he described. It's from anything that has a Valencia engine, but that doesn't help you in the
slightest!
Go to a scrappie and ask - I doubt you'll have any trouble finding one, as they're not kit car fodder...
There is one check you should make before you buy one - take the cap and plastic shield off, grasp the top of the shaft and waggle it side-to-side.
If you can feel any play, go find another. These are fairly old now, and the bronze bushes can sometimes be worn out. Theoretically they can be
changed, but I doubt that you'll find any spares. Most should be OK though.
If the worm gear at the bottom is worn, it's not the end of the world - Burton Power sell replacements for not too much money (or you can use
the one off your old dizzy). It's only held on with a roll pin.
David
[Edited on 19/1/06 by David Jenkins]
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