Johnmor
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| posted on 16/2/06 at 07:12 PM |
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Clutch master cylinder
I have a problem.
The clutch master cylinder that was supplied from Luego seems to draw fluid from the reservoir before the spring can return the fluid from the slave
cylinder.
After two or three strokes of the pedal the system locks with the clutch slave cylinder fully extended. The only way to return the slave cylinder is
to bleed it.
The master cylinder supplied is identical to a brake master cylinder.
Is it me or should this work.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/2/06 at 08:12 PM |
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Sounds very much clearance problem at the master cylinder -- the master cylinder piston isn't going back far enough -- check the pushrod
length isn't too long also that the mushroom head on the cylinder end of the push rod isn't to fat.
[Edited on 16/2/06 by britishtrident]
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Johnmor
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| posted on 16/2/06 at 10:19 PM |
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Clutch
I have looked at the clearence, its ok, it seems the spring in the cylinder is forcing the pedal back quicker than the fluid can return from the slave
cylinder causing it to draw fluid from the reservoir. Some master cylinders have the inlet from the reservoir behind the outlet forcing it to draw
from the slave first and only allowing from the reservoir when the pedal is fully returned.
Not sure how to fix this one, may have to find another master cylinder.
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JAG
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:47 AM |
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It sounds like the recuperation valve in the master cylinder is stuck open. It shouldn't open until the m/cyl' piston has fully returned -
it sounds like yours is stuck open during the whole stroke. Hence it draws from the reservoir instead of the slave cyl'.
A quick strip and clean sounds in order or a new cyl' depends upon costs etc...
Edited to add that it shouldn't generate pressure if the recup-valve is stuck open - hence I may be wrong. Got to be worth a strip and check
though.
[Edited on 17/2/06 by JAG]
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:49 AM |
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mmmmmmm, not sure on this one, never come across it before!
Just wondering, what diameter pipework have you used for the clutch, is it 3/16"?
I know I have posted a question on here before asking about the suitability of 3/16" for the clutch as it moves a lot of fluid and I have heard
that larger bore pipe than this is needed, but then I was told on here that 3/16" should be fine (hope so as that's what it piped up in
now!)
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Johnmor
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 11:29 AM |
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I have used 6mm (1/4 inch) as i was under the same inpression as you. But to no avail.
Cleaned out master cylinder, its brand new, no difference.
Just fitted a old cylinder form a range rover. It has the built in reservoir and the inlet is positioned behind the outlet (near the pedal). Worked
first time.
I think the retuning fluid was insuficient to overcome the vacume (low pressure ) created by the internal spring and as that is all that keeps the
inlet sealed, it allowed fluid in to the master from the reservoir.
If you released the pedal slowly or even in a controlled manner it was ok, but if it was a sudden release thats when the problem occured.
As long as the range rover one works i'll be happy, just a real pain ,must have used a gallon of fluid
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