NS Dev
|
| posted on 25/4/06 at 09:23 PM |
|
|
hurrah concentric clutch works!
finally got my brake/clutch fluid feed pipe from Think Automotive and piped my stainless ressy up the the cylinders. Tested my rather nice but unknown
DIY saab concentric/type 9 box setup for the first time......spot on!!!
Just hope there's enough free play to allow for wear. Should be if I measured right but you can't tell from the pedal as the spring in the
bellows pushes the cyl against the clutch pressure plate so there is no pedal free play anyway.
Will soon find out I suppose, and I guess the copper paddles wont wear that fast anyway!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 25/4/06 at 09:38 PM |
|
|
Well done - sounds like you've had the exact same concerns as I have with my lashing of a mondeo ST24 clutch into my MT75!! Nearly time to test
mine too.
So - no problems with fluid return running -3 brake type hose diameter? Out of interest, what's your pedal ratio and m/c size, and how does the
pedal feel effort wise.
Cheers,
liam
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 25/4/06 at 09:42 PM |
|
|
Heh heh!
Fluid seems to return quick enough for the pedal to "snap" back to it's normal position eargerly enough (not tried it with the
engine running yet as I have no wiring yet!)
Pedal ratio......whatever lined up with the master cylinder! I used a modded Stuart Taylor (same as Luego) pedal box and the clutch has just slightly
more cyl movement for a given pedal movement than the brake (both pedals pivot on a common shaft and all the cyls are mounted in line)
Effort wise, you can push it in by hand with a firm shove, with a foot it is light but heavy enough to feel right....spot on really!
(That's a 3/4" master cyl and saab 900 release cyl)
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 25/4/06 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
Sounds good.
So do you just bleed it in place and the piston comes up to meet the sprung bearing against the clutch fingers? As the clutch wears and the fingers
come out, I presume the piston will just be pushed back in and the pedal will stay where it is? New to me all this hydraulic clutch business...
Liam
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 25/4/06 at 10:25 PM |
|
|
Yea, basically that's it spot on.
I have extended the connections from the cylinder with 3/16" kunifer to a little steel block that I machined and bolted to the side of the
bellhousing where the release arm normally exits. This stops the vibration cracking the kunifer, which was a worry with having "loose"
pipes flapping about. One port on the machined block has the bleed nipple in it and the other has a banjo connection on it with a very short aeroquip
hose going the couple of inches to the clutch master cyl.
I was going to drill the bellhousing in line with the fluid connections on the slave and fit bulkhead fittings (bleed coming out through the very top
of the bellhousing) but the distance between the slave and the bhousing was too small to get the bits of kunifer in the flaring tool!
To bleed it you just crack the bleed nipple open and pump the clutch pedal as normal until no air comes out. as you say, as the clutch pushes the cyl
back, the excess fluid just pushes back up the feed line.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
