MikeR
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 08:48 PM |
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engine only turns over slowly
HELP!
Trying to start my engine for the second time (first time was 2 yeaqrs ago). Engine turns but very slowly and not evenly, ie on compression strokes it
slows down.
Remove the plugs and it turns a lot faster.
Battery is old but has 12.5 volts and i've put a 11.5 volt battery in parrallel - just in case.
doing a compression check (so only one cylinder having compression) and it still turns over slowly. All cyclinders have around the same pressure -
100psi! I'm guessing that is cause its turning over so slowly.
NS Dev has suggested check my earths (so i'll check all connections) any other ideas?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 08:52 PM |
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Sounds like the battery. Only use the one that reads 12v
[Edited on 21/6/06 by big_wasa]
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gary gsx
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 08:53 PM |
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Id go with Dev on that one does sound like a bad earth, engine to chassis. Try a jump lead from the engine to earth on a good battery, What voltage
are you getting from battery when cranking, or just the odd chance you havent knocked dizzy so its advanced? just a thought 
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RazMan
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 09:02 PM |
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A good battery will give you more like 13v fully charged and putting a flat(ter) battery in parallel doesn't help matters.
My money is on the battery 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Deckman001
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 09:08 PM |
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Have you changed the plug leads or timing since you ran it last ?? My engine took about a month of battery recharging after each time i went to the
car to try to start it, eventualy having changed ALL the electrics 1 thing at a time, I found out the timing was out and plug leads were in wrong
order D'oh I put it down to eagerness to start it 
Are any of the exhaust headers getting warm, I had two and three getting warm to start with.
Hope this helps
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MikeR
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 09:29 PM |
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the thing isn't turning over fast enough to start, had it with and with out the leads on the plugs, made no difference. It almost stops when it
gets to the (guessing here) compression bit of the cycle.
NS Dev had the joy of listening to my answer phone messages to give his view
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DIY Si
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 09:58 PM |
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Have you tried putting a little oil down the bores? It could be the rings are sticking after not having been moved for a while. Removing the plugs
will help regardless, as it'll remove a lot of the resistance to turning.
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 10:04 PM |
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my approach would be plugs out, few mls of oil into each cylinder, jumpleads and crank for 10 seconds to get the oil round (fresh oil i hope!). If you
havent messed about with the leads/timing etc id just add new plugs, fresh fuel, some easystart and try again on big jump leads (25mm square ones
ideally).
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MikeR
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 10:08 PM |
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hmmm, suppose i could remove the solonoid and connect direct to the starter as well ......... prove that isn't sapping the power.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 10:09 PM |
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be prepared for some sparks if you do... Could be 50+ amps flowing when those terminals touch.
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MikeR
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| posted on 21/6/06 at 10:24 PM |
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good point, remember to wear gloves
Did do it previously when trying to find a flywheel / starter combo that fits (although that didn't have a clutch / gearbox / plugs in the
engine)
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zetec7
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 05:17 AM |
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You need at least 13 volts for it to give a good crank and a hot spark. If yhou hook up an 11-volt(ish) battery as well, the juice from the 12 volt
one will go into the 11-volt one, instead of the starter. Jump-start with another battery, preferably one in a car with the engine running.
I'll bet it'll spin over great, then. And, no spark plugs+a little light oil down the cylinders is a good idea. If you have an oil
pressure guage, have someone watch it during the spin over. Make sure you're getting oil pressure, so your cam etc. is getting
lubricated!!!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 05:34 AM |
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The battery is flat or knackered -- first charge it.
(1)Voltage off load is not a very good indicator of battery condition but a decently chargred battery will show at least 12.8 volts -- off
charge.
(2) Connecting two flat or knackered batteries dosen't make a good one.
(3) Starter currents are over 120 amps so good clean connections are vital -- don't muck about by-passing solenoids.
(4) A compression pressure of 100 psi is very LOW not high but should improve once the engine is run.
(5) When an engine has been lying up for a long time the bores and valves rust. When starting an engine that has been layed up remove the plugs and
put some Redex down the bores and allow it to soke for a long time -- at least 24 hours but a full week is better. Then turn the engine over by hand
several times with the plugs out. Then still with the plugs out but with a cloth covering the plug holes to spin the engine over on the starter to
remove excess redex from the bores and build up oil pressure. Replace plugs and try to start engine. presure
(5) if it still dosen't turn over at the correct speed do a cranking voltage test --- ie measure the voltage is the battery showing when
cranking the engine below 9 volts indicates a battery problem. Also when cranking check the voltage between the cylinder block and the battery
negative termminal more than about 0.2v usually indicates an earth lead fault.
[Edited on 22/6/06 by britishtrident]
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tks
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 06:56 AM |
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mhh
connecting a bad battery and a good in in parallel is very bad.
the charge of the goodone will go directly to the other battery
in fact its a another consumer on the net.
and that while we don´t put energie in the battery
tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 08:30 AM |
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Sounds like the battery doesn't have the cranking capacity to spin the starter.
Try jump leads from a running car and see if things improve.
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