ceebmoj
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| posted on 3/8/06 at 03:03 PM |
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engine pluming
hi all,
after a recent outing when I over heated in a traffic jam I am significantly upgrading my cooling I have RV8 at the moment there is no header tank
but the SD1 radiator is used I was planning on adding a larger radiator hier CFM fans and a header tank from hear.
http://www.evalution-designs.co.uk/Header%20Tanks.htm
now being a bit of an idiot I am unsure of the pluming I assume that the tank just sits in line in the top hose i.e. engine -> top point on tank
-> bottom of tank -> to top of radiator.
There are a couple of others on hear with RV8’s how do you do for cooling is an oil cooler required have you wraped the headders? thanks for the info.
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Dave J
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| posted on 3/8/06 at 03:35 PM |
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Here's how I've done it;
Top hose to inlet manifold/thermostat housing.
'T' adaptor in top hose with small outlet piped to the top connection of my expansion bottle.
Bottom connection of expansion bottle piped to 'T' adaptor fitted to bottom hose.
My expansion bottle is aluminium with a pressure cap, mounted so as to be the highest part of the system.
Water pump plumbing:
my pump is post SD1 so it may differ, but this is what I did.
Bottom hose from rad to lower pump orifice ('T' fitted for connection to exp bottle).
On the rear of my pump are two small outlets. One goes to the thermostat housing (there is a small outlet to fit the hose to)
from the other outlet on the rear of the pump a hose runs under the inlet manifold and connects to the rear of the manifold. (edelbrock manifold).
I've got a thermostatic switch controlling two 12" fans, also for further insurance, I've put a switch and light on the dash so I
can switch the fans manually. The light comes on when the fans are switched by either method.
I like to know when they kick in as I cannot hear them with a helmet on.
This all works pretty well for my V8
hope it helps,
Dave
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 3/8/06 at 03:43 PM |
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thanks for the quick reply any chance of getting pickture of that?
blake
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/8/06 at 09:00 PM |
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If you are on carbs then its very important that the small hose that locates between the carbs is in place and that the hole in the manifold is not
blocked (pull the pipe off and have a poke around).
This tube goes to the top of the rad.
RV8's get hot in the middle, if it cannot discharge steam and water from this top most point then it will boil very quickly, even if everything
else is okay.
If you are EFI then again a small pipe also exists but feeds back to the water pump so air gets drawn out.
IMHO a swirl pot is of little use on one of these engines as the top hose outlet is below the top of the inlet manifolds water jacket so the swirl pot
will not be the highest point in the system.
If you want oil cooling then get a front timing cover off a 3.9 Range Rover as this has the connections built in, although I would not expect you
would need this extra facility as you cannot drive the car flat out without quickly running out of road !
Regards Mark
[Edited on 3/8/06 by mark chandler]
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02GF74
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| posted on 4/8/06 at 07:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
after a recent outing when I over heated in a traffic jam I am significantly upgrading my cooling I have RV8 at the moment there is no header tank
but the SD1 radiator is used
SD1 radiator should be ample; and on 7 type car, the nose cone should allow sufficient air flow.
look at improiving the current arangement being spending ££££
assuming it is all plumbed in right with no air locks check:
1. thermostat should have small hole + joggle pin; OEM do, drill a small hole 3-4 mm and ensure hole is pointint upwards.
2. ensure hose at top of manifold is connected - this is to bleed the system - I#ve seen LR with this blocked off presumably after bleeding.
3. ensure radiator is good - all fins present? flush it so it runs clean; apparently using soda will shift any hard water deposits
4. water pump impeller ok?
5. staing obvious but fan belt tensions right?
6. cowling for fans to direct air to rad
7. use 'water wetter'
You can get smaller diameter water pump pulleys - I have one on my LR to increase flow rate when chiugging off road - probalby not so clever on high
revver like yours.
electric water pump?
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 4/8/06 at 07:22 AM |
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hi thanks for the advice
the car does not over heat quickly and the tube that you memchon is conected up however once it gets warm it is very hard to get the temp back
down.
does the 3.9 timing cover fit the 3.5 carbed engine? does it include a thermostat or other temp switching?
to be honest I was adding the swerl pot as to provide a headder tank function. the bonnet of the car makes getting a hedder tank in dificult.
PS cars a marcos not locost.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 5/8/06 at 08:03 PM |
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3.9 cover fits a 3.5, no thermostat or temp switching, a 3.9 RR has a small oil cooler thats sits infront of the rad, put there as they expect you to
tow things.
If you get a late 3.9 cover it has a different oil pump which is far superior.
Regards Mark
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DEAN C.
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| posted on 6/8/06 at 09:20 AM |
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Hi,I noticed that you mentioned that the manifold small rear pipe is connected,but as Mark mentioned this is probably blocked and is the most common
cause of V8's overheating apart from head gaskets.
If you pull the pipe off and push a 6mm drill bit down it I would be surprised if it is not blocked or restricted .
You should be able to see a contant stream of water coming from the pipe and into the header tank.
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 7/8/06 at 08:01 AM |
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ok thnks for all the tipps will check that the small pipe from the top of the manifold is clear.
I presently dod not have a headder tank so I will see if I can find somthing that fits in the space.
blake
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 8/8/06 at 12:23 PM |
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hi again,
been looking at my engin plumbing and I think it is very wrong.
does any one have pictures / diagramms of how a RV8 should be plumbed it is a 3.5 on SU carbs from a a SD1
thnks for any help / advice.
blake
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