se7ensport
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 06:20 PM |
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170miles and a buggered exhaust valve :(
just a moan really: i've only done 170miles on a new engine (old stock pinto) from ford and turns out exhaust valve isn't working properly
only registering 80% compared to the others.
Heads now off and i'm looking for some one to fix (bristol area), i'd have a go myself but lacking time, tools and experience on things
like this... any recommendations for my area of someone cheap but competant?
Cheers
Alex
[Edited on 16/9/06 by se7ensport]
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se7ensport
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 06:30 PM |
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there's always one of you around (usually hellfire)....
I would but funds are incredibly tight, I got married last week and looks like I'll still be paying that off until may 
ps I do have bike carbs though
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gazza285
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 06:36 PM |
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May 2026?
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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ch1ll1
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 06:39 PM |
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you know you want to fit one 
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stevec
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 06:56 PM |
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If its an old stock engine it may be that the valve in question was one of the ones that would be naturally be open as the engine sat. A bit of
condesation may have lead to corrosion of the valve or seat, Perhaps a new valve and or seat recutting would cure it.
Steve
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Catpuss
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 07:09 PM |
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could be all sorts of things such as sticking value, as mentioned bit of valve corrosion or simply just the valve cleance is off (e.g the adjusting
nuts were not properly done up or clearance was not done properly).
If its valve clearance that is a doddle. I used to do it on my old GSX600F (pre bucket and shim engine). Thats 16 valves with a special adjuster tool.
At least according the the book of lies you can just use two spanners on a pinto. 
(As a cheat when doing cleances I used to just put the bike in 5th and turn the rear wheel to drive the cams rather than all the removal of access
covers e.t.c).
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se7ensport
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 07:32 PM |
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clearance is set correctly, I suspect new valve and recut will cure.
Half tempted to do it myself but dont want the heart ache of taking it for another rolling road session to get it all set up properly to be told I
didn't fix it and having to pay out again!
ps it could easily have been 2026!
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stevec
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 07:58 PM |
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If it is a valve seating issue and it was alright rolling road wise before it went a b***ock then surely if you dont fiddle with the fueling or the
ignition settings and carefully note all the other positions then you wont need to re rolling road it.
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gazza285
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| posted on 16/9/06 at 08:10 PM |
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Sounds like it might have been the rolling road that found the problem, 80% is a little specific a number.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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se7ensport
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| posted on 17/9/06 at 09:34 AM |
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It was found during the initial set of checks that interpro carry out prior to rolling roading, so they couldn't continue; they were very
helpfull, even lending me some torx keys to take the head off. Only downside is they work out at about £83 an hour once you include VAT.
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Catpuss
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| posted on 17/9/06 at 07:51 PM |
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I remember a story (IIRC at Stan Stevens) where a bloke was bringing in an Aprillia Millie for some head work. On the way over to the workshop a valve
broke and burried itself into a piston.
As he said in the article, it would have been a nightmare if that had broken just after leaving the workshop.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 18/9/06 at 08:23 AM |
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Easy job, don't panic!
1) get a replacement valve, for what they cost you may as well. Either your local motor factors or failing that Burton Power will oblige
2) borrow or buy a valve spring compressor (Halfords seem to do Sykes Pickavant ones for £35 which are very good, but you can hire them for a few quid
for a weekend)
3) remove knackered valve, check seat, should be able to just do an extensive lapping session with the new valve rather than recut
4) fit new valve
5) get head gasket set and refit head, and new cambelt
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 18/9/06 at 08:24 AM |
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ps would do it for you but u are a bit far away in bristol!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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02GF74
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| posted on 18/9/06 at 04:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
exhaust valve isn't working properly only registering 80% compared to the others.
what does that mean? Is it not closing? or not opening fully?
is head standard or modified?
is it a realively new head?
I can only guess at what ois wrong as I dont really know what you mean by "only registering 80%".
could be bent valve or problem with valve/guide fitting hence asking if a rebuilt head.
and new camshaft - so we can rule out cam/valve gear problem?
removing a vlave is a piece of cake - it'll take you less time than typing up how do to it - and it won't affect engine set up onless you
mess up refitting of the cambelt (pinto = ohc right?)
I'd lend you my valve spring compressor but you are a bit far away.
Until you have removed the faulty valve, you donl;t know what is wrong; it is wasnlt closing, then you can expectthe vavle seat face and the valve
seat itselft o be damaged to some extent but shouldn't be that bad for some lapping to cure it, maybe......
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se7ensport
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| posted on 18/9/06 at 05:42 PM |
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I appreciate the commaradary of this site, shame location isn't in my favour.
The head is litterally brand new original Ford spec.
can I assume that lapping is just using cutting paste between the valve and the seat?
Guessing its been covered before in previous threads so I'm off to have a search through the archive but if anyone has an tips they'd be
appreciated.
ps where can I hire a valve spring compressor, just general tool hire places, surely not halfrauds?
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DIY Si
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| posted on 18/9/06 at 05:49 PM |
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Most tool places should have a compressor for rent. Looks like a big G clamp, but with a sprung handle. The lapping as you've guessed involves a
fine, or maybe coarse in this case, cutting paste to crate a hopefully perfect seal between head and valve. Just put a dab of paste of the valve and
attach some kind of stick to it and rotate between your hands as if starting a fire the boy scout way. Job should be done when the skin falls off your
hands!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Catpuss
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| posted on 20/9/06 at 05:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
ps would do it for you but u are a bit far away in bristol!
When it comes time for me to start doing this sort of bit, my I ask for soem assistance when it all goes arse?
I've got a little while to go before I start the break down and prep work though (prolly start of next year).
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02GF74
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| posted on 21/9/06 at 08:51 AM |
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as NSDEV said ... but you have to ask why is there a problem with such new parts? you have to find the cause otherwise it will keep happening, next
time the valve may break destroying the piston, block etc....
quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
The head is litterally brand new original Ford spec.
can I assume that lapping is just using cutting paste between the valve and the seat?
ps where can I hire a valve spring compressor, just general tool hire places, surely not halfrauds?
I had new valves and new heads so did not need much grinding in - I did it the locost way using ajax or equivalent tesco sink cleaner, wrap some
rubber around the stem and use a drill to whizz them round - much quicker.
re: vsc - why hire when the are cheap to buy? The expensive ones are for multivalve i.e. 16 v engines; you should get on for less than £30; probably
cost about the smae to hire - or your favourite online auction site
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