DarrenW
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:33 PM |
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Cam wheel problem
I decided to replace std cam wheel tonight (Pinto injected head with FR32 cam) with a vernier type. Vernier wont fit. ID is 24mm vs 25.4mm on the old
one.
Does anyone know if there is supposed 2 different diameters? The OD and teeth profile are identical.
The old cam wheel fitted the old OE cam and also the replacement FR32 cam.
If i cant get a new cam wheel in the time limit ive imposed has anyone just removed the key before and relied on the bolt to clamp it all up (ive read
this is an alternative solution to using a vernier wheel).
Cheers,
Darren.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 08:03 AM |
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can you not get an engineering shop locally to turn the bore out for you?
Shouldn't be a problem to hold the wheel in a lathe, and easy enough to turn out.
You should be able to file the keyway out to the right depth using the old one as a guide then.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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mcerd1
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 08:53 AM |
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Who made the vernier one ?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 09:40 AM |
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I could get it machined out, im just mindful that it may be more cost effective to find out what the correct application is for this wheel, sell it
and buy the correct one (probs dont have time tho'!).
There is no name on the wheel that i can see. It is steel, looks very durable and good quality (its not a dowel type, has 3 bolts to slacken to give
+/- half a tooth adjustment).
Does anyone know if there are 2 different diameters for Pintos. Im wondering if this is an early one or perhaps for 1.6 etc (only guessing, didnt
expect it so didnt check when i bought it).
Im half tempted to sell it on and just use std wheel with no key, investigation so far says key doesnt provide the drive and even if it turned the
valves wont clash with pistons (not good but not disastrous). Anyone tried this?
Thanks again,
Darren.
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mookaloid
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 09:46 AM |
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It's obviously not a pinto one!
I have read about a lowcost way of using the standard one by drilling a new keyway when the whell is in the correct position and using a cut off stub
from a drill bit as a key.
I'll see if I can find it again.....
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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flak monkey
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 10:06 AM |
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With a high lift cam the vlave in a pinto will clash if the belt breaks or the timing is wrong. Its only with the standard cam on the 2 litre that
contact is not possible.
Theres a guy that sells them on ebay, where i got mine from. Think they are about £50 for a ali one.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Dusty
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 12:15 PM |
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Don't Burtons do offset keys to give a degree or two of adjustment on a standard wheel. I also heard if you turn the wheel round it varies
timing by 2 or 4 degrees. Can't remember which.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 12:40 PM |
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Thinking about it it should be easy ish to make the keyway in the wheel wider and then when correct position is determined fill the gap either side
with something suitably sturdy (eg broken drill stub of suitable diameter). Obviously easier to type than do but anything is possible if you can build
a car and have some engineering knowledge.
Ive managed to find an old toolmaker mate who has lathe at home who is prepared to bore it for me.
Im curious as to what the wheel is actually off now??? I wonder if crossflow is same OD but smaller ID?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 01:06 PM |
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If you want to make a proper job of it and get it set up correctly then invest in a proper vernier pulley. At least then you can set it up and if you
take it to be tuned up at the rolling road then they can adjust it to see if it will make any difference.
Linky
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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DarrenW
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 01:39 PM |
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The wheel ive got is a proper one, and will be Pinto'd when bored out. If you look at it side by side with original cam wheel you would sware
that it was spot on. The teeth profile and everything is exactly the same (measured etc). It was a bargain at £25, now i know why!!
Out of curiosity i was just thinking out loud ref locost ideas. From an engineering point of view i dontlike to fiddle such things so will do it
properly and as you say it will allow some adjustment if i rolling road it (from everything ive read static setting just gets you somewhere close)
Thanks for the advice and chat.
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gazza285
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 03:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Im curious as to what the wheel is actually off now??? I wonder if crossflow is same OD but smaller ID?
More likely to be a CVH vernier, Crossflows had a chain.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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mcerd1
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 03:58 PM |
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I've seen the peg adjustment ones before in second hand race/ rally part listings
they won't be as easy/ intuitive to adjust but its probably more secure once its been set
cossies are supposed to have the same ones (x 2) and they are probably the same ID but I don't know.
maybe your one came off someone's custom race camshaft or something ?
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