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Author: Subject: Pinto mods to fit a locost
peterparsons

posted on 9/1/07 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
Pinto mods to fit a locost

I know the sump needs cutting, does the oil pick up need shortening to, if so by how much, does anyone have some dimentions/ drawing
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The Baron

posted on 9/1/07 at 08:19 PM Reply With Quote
Yes it will need to be shortened. Your best bet would be to try to get hold of a RS2000 (Mk 1 or Mk2) alloy sump.

Mine didn’t come with a oil pick up pipe so I modified my existing one by using a lump of plasitcine and trial fitting (and guess work) to get the bottom of the pick up pipe filter about 10mm from the bottom of the sump.

Cheers,
The Baron

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pajsh

posted on 9/1/07 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
I've been watching alloy sumps for a while and missed a good one at chrimbo for about £100 notes. The rest all seem to go for £125-150 which is not locost as far as I'm concerned.

Must be cheaper to cut a few bit of scrap plate to suit and slip a local welder £20 to weld it up.

For details do a search on pinto sumps there are various useful posts including Mark Allansons

Here

[Edited on 9/1/07 by pajsh]

[Edited on 9/1/07 by pajsh]





I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.

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John.Taylor

posted on 9/1/07 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
I found the dimensions from previous posts - there are some pictures out there too - and made a template of what to remove from the original sump.

I then looked on Yell.com for a local 'sheet metal work' company for an off cut, went to pick it up, got chatting and slipped the guy £20 to make it all up.

One thing to note is that you will chop the drain hole out and will have to re-weld one back in, also shortening the pick-up pipe is a bit of a pain as the bracket holding the pipe is brazed in place and melted when I tried to braze the gauze back on the shortened pipe.

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ayoungman

posted on 9/1/07 at 09:56 PM Reply With Quote
I found that shortening the oil pickup was more aggro than chopping the sump. The oil pickup is best done by brazing.





"just like that !"

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Andy S

posted on 9/1/07 at 10:16 PM Reply With Quote
I found the pickup to be less of a problem than welding up the odd porous weld. Leak tested with white spirit.

For info - chopping the sump height down to 5 1/2" (bell housing height) reduces the oil capacity by 1.1 litre, adding a box on the side - of a size which does not foul the clutch cable recovers about 500ml so you lose overall 600ml in capacity

The biggest potential problem is the loss of the 1.5" "head" of oil over the pick-up - Unless you add addition baffling to the sump you really run the risk of losing oil coverage of the pick-up.

I built a horizontal baffle in line with design in Dave Vizards book on tuning the Pinto - the returns on all the holes took a bit of thought but it was worth it - The horizontal baffle works fantastic - tested buy pouring water in and it fell through the holes into the sump pan without any issues - giving the sump some serious shaking to simulate hard braking and corning forces failed to remove any great quantity of oil from the sump - same trick with a standard sump for comparison emptied it in short order.

There are some good plans and links on the ROHCar site.

I will try and post a picture of the baffle if any interest.

Andrew

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DarrenW

posted on 10/1/07 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
I modded my pick up pipe with JB Weld (observing all cleanliness rules etc). Ive just changed the bottom end after 3.5K miles and the pick up pipe is still A1.

When modding the sump (thumbs up for Mark Allinsons guide) i used the bit i chopped off (inverted) as a baffle.

I also made the base plate out of 3mm steel and angled it up at the front slightly - this make for a kind of skid plate (tested and passed) and helps flow the oil back to the pick up area.

As said before welding the needle holes was worst bit. I left mine overnight full of water. Next day there were no leaks as such but tiny rust spots were visible on outside (sometimes a bubble of water but certainly no runs). After that i covered all seems with Wurth Bond and seal.

Only other bugger part is keeping the flange face flat. They are never very flat to start with and the cut and shut job doesnt help. I bolted mine down to a piece of thick kitchen worktop (i waited till Swimbo was out and filled the holes so she couldnt see, this is easy on oak worktops - not sure if laminate tops are so easy to hide).






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