The Doc
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 07:56 PM |
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XFlow Choke
Hi
Anyone knocked up a conversion from an automatic to a manual choke for a twin choke weber (1600 Ghia in this case)
Also how do you mount the choke knob to keep the SVA man happy?
Really I just want to get rid of all the hose work etc in addition to having the air cleaner poking out. Then I can have a smaller air scoop.
TA
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Duncan Mould
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 10:35 PM |
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I fitted my choke pull on a bracket along side the bolt that holds the steering column above your knees.
You know the two bolts on the sierra column where it is bolted just below the scuttle.I find it easy to operate and it keeps the dash clean and
uncluttered, SVA inspector never even knew it was there!
Sand alloy used to do a conversion kit for your carb dont know wheter they are still about?
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nitram38
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 10:36 PM |
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Converting it is easy. You can buy a conversion kit.
As to the SVA, there is an exclusion zone around the edge your steering wheel of around 125mm, where sticky out switches and knobs can be
mounted...........err I mean fixed 
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02GF74
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| posted on 4/2/07 at 09:04 AM |
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yep - exclusiong zone extending 127 mm (need to consult book tho' around the steering wheel. being hprizontal in line with the bottom of the
wheel.
a picture of this was posted recently but dunoo what you would search for.
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steve m
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| posted on 4/2/07 at 09:15 AM |
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why, fit a choke ?
Ive never used one on my xflow,
get in, pump the throttle twice, to get some fuel in, and start it,
it will be a bit lumpy for the first few mins, but after that its fine
i used this method, on the old 28/36 DCD and with the current setup of twin 40's
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The Doc
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| posted on 4/2/07 at 07:25 PM |
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Anyone else not bother with a choke?
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Marcus
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| posted on 5/2/07 at 09:45 AM |
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I find the choke necessary on my crossflow. No chance starting it without on a cold day.
Mega cheap manual conversion cost me 5p plus the cable.
I used the brass innards from a 'chocolate block' cable connector.
Step 1 remove all of the auto choke gubbins, and you're left with a single brass pin sticking out.
Screw the cable connector to this.
Drill the connector so you can get the choke cable in the side and still use the screw to tighten it on.
A hole drilled in the throttle bracket makes a good cable stop for the outer.
You will need to fabricate a cover for the exposed choke bits, remebering to make a tab for a return spring.
The choke knob is mounted on the scuttle firewall, out of the way and 'just' reachable if you pop one arm out of the harness.
It sounds more complicated than it actually is, but I'm nowhere near the car to take piccies!
Mine's been on for 2 years now and works fine on a 32/36 DG(now M)V carb.
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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