pdm
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:36 PM |
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Protecting surfaces whilst rebuilding
Hi All
Well new to the site as of today. Not even started yet - trying to gauge whether I can even build as very little experience, so at moment only work
I've done is to clear the garage and prepped the floor ready for paint !!
I really want to get the most I can out of the build so am going for the traditional donor route for whatever I end up doing. I figure if I can
strip a car for a smallish outlay that bodes well for building one before I've committed to much money. My current thinking is a GKD Legend -
is that allowable at this forum ?
Anyway started reading engine rebuild books and one question I have is about preventing rust build up.
For a first time build its going to take some care and time to strip down/make up a short engine - so will a liberal spreading of duck oil or WD40
really stop ALL rust if you give it a coating before calling it a night ?
Also when is the best time to paint the block - when its stripped after it's machined or when its built ?
thanks.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:39 PM |
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Hello andWelcome.
I draft excluded my garage doors and the garage is dry. This is enough to prevent rusting overnight, but a coat of oil will help for longer
periods.
Enjoy the forum, theres a lot of information on here.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:41 PM |
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Welcome to the site.
Use engine oil to stop rust, unless you have access to proper preserving oil. Dont use WD40. You dont need loads. Just pop some one a rag and wipe the
surfaces over.
You can build whatever you like and discuss it here.  We are an open minded bunch 
Paint the block before you assemble, but after machining work is complete.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:44 PM |
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I have always found a libral spoldge of oil, wrapped up in clean cloths and stored in crates to be agood way to store any engine parts that
arn't going straight back in a sealed engine.
as long as you dont clean off every scrap of oil then internal parts tend to hold up pretty well
[Edited on 19/8/09 by Dangle_kt]
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pdm
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:47 PM |
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Thanks chaps.
Top tips already !!
Draft excluder sounds great in winter.
On the painting front - do you then mask the machined surfaces with ordinary masking take ?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 07:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pdm
On the painting front - do you then mask the machined surfaces with ordinary masking take ?
Yep, that'll be fine if you want to spray.
Personally I use brush on paint on engines as you cant see the brush strokes anyway and its quicker than faffing about with masking tape
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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craig1410
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 09:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pdm
On the painting front - do you then mask the machined surfaces with ordinary masking take ?
I'd tend to just paint carefully with a brush and then gently scrap away any paint from the machined surfaces with a stanley knife blade. That
way you get a good paint seal right up to the machined edge which helps to prevent any rust or alloy corrosion getting a hold in future. Most machined
faces are very flat so the stanley blade works really well.
I agree with the above regarding WD40 - it's smelly stuff and not ideal for engine preservation as it will break down oil. Best to use whatever
engine oil the engine will ultimately require. As already mentioned, clean oily rags of the lint free variety are good to cover engines with.
Don't leave an engine exposed in your garage, especially if it has been oiled as it will collect dust which will quickly turn to grinding paste.
Keep it covered up as much as possible.
Cheers,
Craig.
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BenB
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| posted on 19/8/09 at 10:35 PM |
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If you're going to use used engine oil just be very careful when you're handling the parts afterwards. It's really not very nice
stuff!!! It's kind of like the gunky tar that collects in smokers lungs and you know what that does.....
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