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Author: Subject: cold start problem westfield
jamesahanbury

posted on 18/4/11 at 05:30 PM Reply With Quote
cold start problem westfield

when trying to start my westfield when cold the engine coughs and splutters and then stalls. it does this for about 5 mins when the engine is cold. after 5 mins of trying to get some pertol through the engine the cost tics over perfectly and then starts with no problem. any thoughts on how to get over the initial start?
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britishtrident

posted on 18/4/11 at 05:34 PM Reply With Quote
Batteries are dead in my crystal ball what engine and how is it fuelled ?





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perksy

posted on 18/4/11 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
Indeed

Are you using twin Carb's or Injection ? What engine do you have ?

[Edited on 18/4/11 by perksy]

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jamesahanbury

posted on 18/4/11 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
sorry guys! its a ford zetec 1.8 with twin 45 webbers. also the oil pressure is really high to start with and the red light stays on for a bit??

[Edited on 18/4/11 by jamesahanbury]

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tomgregory2000

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
is the choke function working correctly?
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jamesahanbury

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:24 PM Reply With Quote
excuse my ignorance how do i check that?
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Xtreme Kermit

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
45s have chokes??
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perksy

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jamesahanbury
sorry guys! its a ford zetec 1.8 with twin 45 webbers. also the oil pressure is really high to start with and the red light stays on for a bit??

[Edited on 18/4/11 by jamesahanbury]





Westfields Don't normally have a Red Oil pressure light, this is usually the Charging circuit light and normally goes out when you rev the engine
They usually rely on the Oil pressure gauge for monitoring oil pressure
(Unless somebody has added a Low pressure Led like i have on mine)

Abnormaly high oil pressure *could* be a stuck oil pressure releif valve, which iirc on the Zetec is part of the oil pump

When Starting with the Webers, i used to pump the accelerator pedal a couple of times and then start the car
You will need to 'dab' the throttle pedal to keep the engine happy, Once it starts to warm up it should be fine
UNLESS there is another underlying issue ?

[Edited on 18/4/11 by perksy]

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tomgregory2000

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:45 PM Reply With Quote
Second pick down in thin link click me

you can see two little levers, one on each carb, both leaning to the left.

Do you have these linked to a choke cable?
If not try holding them over and get someone to start the engine and see if she starts.

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flak monkey

posted on 18/4/11 at 07:51 PM Reply With Quote
Turn on ignition

Wait for 30 secs for float chambers to fill with fuel (assuming electric fuel pump)

Pump x3 on accelerator pedal quickly

Start with a little throttle. Hold throttle open at ~2k revs for about 30secs

Sorted

Well thats the normal starting procedure with webers/dellortos

Charging light may not go out if you let the car idle at 800rpm or less when its first started. If you blip the throttle to raise the rpm to 2k+ it shoudl go out

Oil pressure will be high when you first start the engine, I used to get 150+psi on my pinto... dropping to 60psi when hot at tickover.


[Edited on 18/4/11 by flak monkey]





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jamesahanbury

posted on 18/4/11 at 08:06 PM Reply With Quote
thanks guys will give it a go tomorrow
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Xtreme Kermit

posted on 18/4/11 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
Second pick down in thin link click me

you can see two little levers, one on each carb, both leaning to the left.

Do you have these linked to a choke cable?
If not try holding them over and get someone to start the engine and see if she starts.


Ah so that's what those are for

I use the same startup procedures as others. Four prods of throttle and turn the key.

I have seen one car with the chokes connected, and it starts really easily, but it is only used to start. Within 30 seconds you can push it back in.

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