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Author: Subject: Pinto Exhaust manifold stud sheared off
ed_crouch

posted on 4/5/06 at 08:35 PM Reply With Quote
Pinto Exhaust manifold stud sheared off

Knackers!!

Its one of three studs that hold the downpipe onto the manifold.

do these studs screw in?? Basically ive sheared one off, and will probably drill it out and use a stud extractor. That is assuming they screw in in the first place. Do they??

Ta.

Ed.

[Edited on 4/5/06 by ed_crouch]





I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!

Hurrah.

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ch1ll1

posted on 4/5/06 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
yes they do !

if you can get it out !

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RichardK

posted on 4/5/06 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
Yes they do screw in, I got mine from this guy on ebay, item number 8060963173 I converted my inlet manifold to studs at the same time.

Regards

Rich

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rusty nuts

posted on 4/5/06 at 09:00 PM Reply With Quote
It may be possible to weld a nut to the remains of the studusing a high setting on the welder . The heat from welding and being able to use a spanner oftem gets broken studs out . If the nut rings off try another . Works with siezed and rounded brake bleed nipples as well
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ed_crouch

posted on 4/5/06 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks, chaps.

Thinks I will try drilling it out given my lack of welder, but that is also a good thought, Rusty!

It wont be the first time: I had to drill out a knackered wheel bolt on the Missis's Polo the other day. Crap quality locking wheel bolts!

Taking a half inch drillbit to her alloys was a mildly scary thing to do!

Ed.





I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!

Hurrah.

www.wings-and-wheels.net

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rusty nuts

posted on 4/5/06 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
Little tip if you haven't got your zuess chart . Use the largest drill bit that will fit through a correct size nut . Think someone once posted saying to deduct the pitch from the diameter of the stud for the correct drill size HTH
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nitram38

posted on 4/5/06 at 09:33 PM Reply With Quote
Some good advice......NEVER DRILL OUT A STUD AND USE EXTRACTERS!
I have never known this method to work and the extractors always snap. You are then left with a hardened extractor that cannot be drilled.
Either weld on top of the stud then weld a bar at 45-90 degrees (the heat will also help to losen it) to unscrew it, or take it to someone who can get the manifold cherry red with oxy.






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mark chandler

posted on 4/5/06 at 10:30 PM Reply With Quote
I,ll second that, extractors are the devils weapons, all they do is expand the remains and snap..... If you have some get a big hammer and smash them to pieces, it will save you venting your fury as they damage something valueable at a later stage.
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Peteff

posted on 4/5/06 at 10:43 PM Reply With Quote
Start with a small drill and work up in size till you get close then use a tap when you get to the actual tap size. it'll probably fall out like a spring by then.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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zetec7

posted on 5/5/06 at 12:18 AM Reply With Quote
I have to agree on the extractors - once you've broken one off in there, you're done. They're harder than any drill. If you DO want to use one, use the ones that are square in cross-section - they're spring tempered, and can twist some without breaking. My fave technique, though, is to use LOTS OF HEAT. Oxy-acetylene, heat to dull red, and twist it out. Has never failed me yet (but don't rty it in ally).
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