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Author: Subject: ANGLE OF THE DANGLE!!
Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:45 AM Reply With Quote
ANGLE OF THE DANGLE!!

Is it just the angle of the dangle.....or will my engine never go in??

Ive removed all the obstructions as pointed out by marc(MNR) and iain(AGRIV8)!! when they came to visit, i,e the tunnel clearnce issuses and ive also cut some chunks off the engine !

what am i doing wrong??

Theroretically it will fit into the space now but .........

..


....




and from the other side









Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
you may think the sump is in the way, so ive removed it and give it another go, its a little further into the engine bay but no luck still!!!

But even if it did go with the sump removed that would be stupid, because i would have to drain oil and remove sump just to change clutch for example

here is pics with sump removed...









Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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UncleFista

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
Would it not make it easier if you split the engine/box ?





Tony Bond / UncleFista

Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...

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flak monkey

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:53 AM Reply With Quote
Yep, thats what I was going to suggest... Split the engine and box. Should go in easily then





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
i tried that, when the box is in, pushed as far into tunnel as possible, and then when i lower the engine with the crank as close to the front as possible, there is the whole clutch which wont squeeze past the bellhousing!!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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MkIndy7

posted on 21/5/06 at 11:56 AM Reply With Quote
Will it go in from underneath?

Lift the Chassis, guide the gearbox up into the tunnel and then lift the engine and lower the chassis till its all in place

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:01 PM Reply With Quote
ERM it might but im on my own here@ the moment!

....ive blagged a favour from my mate 3 times to come and fit engine- and each time we come accross another hurdle!

What will i use to get the car high up! i wouldnt trust a trolly jack that high- plus it would be in the middle of the car to get enough height!! right??

Then i guess id slide the engine under then reconnect to the engine crane!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
....plus my engine and gear bo must weight 8 tonne already!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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MkIndy7

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:04 PM Reply With Quote
Yup, sounds like you've got the right idea, chock the reat wheels and put the trolly jack somewhere under the foot well area.

We've done it this way a few times for removing and replacing both FWD and RWD engines and gearboxes.

The trolley jack should be fine as it will only be supporting the weight of the chassis as it will just about be down by the time it takes any weight of the engine.

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:06 PM Reply With Quote
if i put it at the rear of the engine bay (near center of car) i have no areas to lift from at its all flat plate





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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MkIndy7

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
Can you use a piece of wood to bridge the gap between a few chassis rails?
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gary gsx

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:24 PM Reply With Quote
Is the gearbox mount bracket welded to the chassis? Ive made mine so i can un bolt it, then jack front of chassis up and get a better angle on engine and box just a thought
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DIY Si

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:29 PM Reply With Quote
Is it poss to place the box in the tunnel, but further back? Then drop the engine in and move the two together? Not familiar with the chassis you've got so this could be complete ar$e.
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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Is the gearbox mount bracket welded to the chassis? Ive made mine so i can un bolt it, then jack front of chassis up and get a better angle on engine and box just a thought
quote:


its part of the chassis!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Is it poss to place the box in the tunnel, but further back? Then drop the engine in and move the two together? Not familiar with the chassis you've got so this could be complete ar$e.


as the tunnel gets smaller as it comes to near the end of gear box i cant get the gear box in any further! and the gear stick mounting part rubs the 2 rails!

[Edited on 21/5/06 by Krismc]





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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DIY Si

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:47 PM Reply With Quote
Didn't you manage to get it most of the wa in before like that?
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scottc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:47 PM Reply With Quote
What about using the hoist to lift the front of the car and the jack to lift the engine in from underneath?
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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 12:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Didn't you manage to get it most of the wa in before like that?


yea with out the clutch on!! which adds a fair bit!

The flywheel nearly squeezed past the bellhousing!!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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scottc

posted on 21/5/06 at 01:00 PM Reply With Quote
For a few cups of tea and a biscuit I could give you a hand this afternoon.

Never tried to do this before but I can shout at it for you!

I think I'm local to you.

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zenarcher

posted on 21/5/06 at 01:42 PM Reply With Quote
Looks like one of these jobs where 2 or 3 people would be a good thing, I would use the hoist to lift chassis and then lift engine/gb' combo on jack at the point of balance,if you see what I mean.
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tks

posted on 21/5/06 at 02:00 PM Reply With Quote
mhhh

Dunno how the box is, but i wouldn't like to connect an angine to the box.

Cant you dsimantle the box at the front??

for example take away the stick with its shit, until you come close the hte wall where the bearings are??

Then you havemore room to move in the tunnel right??

best option would be just make every thing wich sit in the way bolt on/off ready..

Tks





The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.

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Peteff

posted on 21/5/06 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
Have you measured it for final fit?

You've got to lift the back end of the gearbox as you lower the engine and move it backwards or the car forwards at the same time, you could do with an engine leveller to use with the hoist.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Simon

posted on 21/5/06 at 03:06 PM Reply With Quote
How about raising the rear of the car.

ATB

Simon






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Krismc

posted on 21/5/06 at 03:08 PM Reply With Quote
thing is its not a final fit!!

and every thing that is bolted off is off.

i was going to test fit to mark and drill holes for mounts, then remove, sort starter and hydraulic clutch out then refit!





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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givemethebighammer

posted on 21/5/06 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
Put the engine and gearbox on a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with a caster in each corner. Lift the car with the engine lift. Slide the engine and gearbox underneath. Lower the car (onto axle stands if necc). Then use the engine lift to lift and maneuver the engine and gearbox into position.

Worked for me when I built the tiger, took two of us to do the job.

good luck

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