Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:00 PM |
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Engine rebuild(RV8)..lubes
Planning to start rebuilding ( and finish! ) my RV8 this weekend.
all parts clean and ready and cylinders checked and honed.
What lubrication should I use on the cylinder walls for the new rings and on the bearings..
I have graphogen past and MZl engine lube along with cam lube supplied with the cam shaft.
and how much?
Paul
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andybod
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:09 PM |
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i normally mix graphegen with engine oil for the rings don't forget to pack oil pump with petroleum jelly prior to rebuild helps prime oil
pump otherwise they can struggle to self prime
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Bob C
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:16 PM |
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Cam lube - put the lot on! put some on the ends of the valve pushrods (between rockers & tappets) & even on rocker/valve contact.
Rotating bearings (cam, bigends/mains) I've always just used engine oil - remember running in is a wearing process, a lot of folk don't
use good oil 'til there's a couple of thousand miles on the engine (i.e. top range synthetic from the off can prevent it running in
properly (?)
Those are the "old wives tales" I've rebuilt to in the past - seems to have worked for me...
Have you got the ARP mains bolt set? I found this "clamped" the crank on the middle main (fine thread, extra torque & moly lube - they
squeeze about 3 times as hard as the stock ones) - had to shim it on mine - something to watch out for.
I think once the cam lube goes on you'll want to be starting it pretty soon. From memory 1st startup has to rev at 2000 for 20 minutes - can be
a tall order on a new engine installation esp. if the cooling circuit is prone to airlocks!
Have fun
Bob
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DIY Si
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:26 PM |
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If the rings are new, you don't want anything on the bores excpet some light oil, as they need to wear in to create the seal. Otherwise,
anything that moves should recieve a good dollop of cam lube and bearings a nice coat of the oil the engine will run on. Also, as already said, make
sure the oil pump is full of heavy grade oil/petroleum jelly/something similar to aid the start up oil pressure.
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andyharding
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:34 PM |
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As said everything that moves wants a good coat of engine oil or cam lube EXCEPT the bores if new rings are fitted.
If you have fitted new rings you want them and the bores to be dry. I wipe the bores with oil to sop them rusitng until the head is due to go on then
clean it off with solvent.
The purpose of the hone is to make the bores rough enough to cut a good seal into the rings. If the run in isn't done properly your bores will
glaze over before the rings are sealing properly and then engine will never reach it's potential. In worst cases you can end up blow by and poor
compression.
Assembling the engine with dry bores is just the start. You should use either running in oil or very cheap (with no low-friction additives) mineral
oil for the first 100 miles.
After doing the proper run in on a new cam etc limit yourself to 2/3 - 3/4 of your max RPM but vary the RPM as much as possible and use full throttle
as much as possible.
Full throttle puts the most amount of pressure on your rings and will make them bed in much better.
No doubt I will be opening a can of worms here as a lot I've said goes against the grain of what most people think you should do to a new engine
but this is how run in my engines and so do a lot of race engine builders.
[Edited on 31/5/06 by andyharding]
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 07:47 PM |
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Think it was in the old Fast Car mag years ago that I read about assembly pistons and rings with NO oil because the oil will burn and the residue
glazes the bores which will stop the rings bedding in . The engine will use oil and not perform as it should . Tried it on my last hot engine for my
Mini after giving it a lot of thought . Goes against everything I had been taught but it worked
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mark chandler
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 08:07 PM |
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Do not forget to drill a couple of holes from the cam valley through to the cam chain, helps lube the chain and distributor and cost nowt.
Regards Mark
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froggy
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 09:44 PM |
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one thing i allways do with rovers is pack the pump with vasline and use a priming tool with the dizzy removed . the rover will spin at 250 -300 rpm
on the starter but a drill will go at 1000rpm with ease, whip off the left hand rocker cover and wait til the oil is running down no,8 pushrod which
is the end of the oil circuit.and you should get around 20psi showing on a rebuild with new shells etc. i run diert cheap 20/50 for the first couple
of hundred miles then 15/40 from then on.take your time on the lifter preload as it could stop your motor revving over 4k if you get it wrong, hope
youve got a comfy chair in the garage as youll be spending a lot of time sitting listening to it gurgle once its running, 
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Chippy
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 10:17 PM |
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I always use STP when rebuilding, give all the bearing surfaces a brush over with it, has always worked for me, (sticky as hell though). Cheers
Chippy.
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Simon
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| posted on 31/5/06 at 11:47 PM |
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If you are using a remote filter, you could do what I did to prime pump.
My filter is mounted about 6-8" above oil pump, so I filled both the in and out hoses to filter with oil. Instant pressure when started.
Worked for me.
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 31/5/06 by Simon]
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Bob C
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| posted on 16/7/06 at 10:50 AM |
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Back from the dead this one -
I was looking for something else & found the oil pump priming tool I made when I built up the v8 for the mx5. It goes in a drill & you stick
it down the distributor hole & spin up the oil pump till you get pressure & fill up the filter, cooler etc. That way when you start it for
real it has instant oil pressure.
Anyone who wants it - it's FOC if you come & get it or a fiver(?) postage. - ist email or U2U secures.....
Bob
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