oliwb
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| posted on 15/12/06 at 08:31 PM |
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ARP/Zetec wishlist...
I think I need a bit of a reality check! I've been looking into swapping some components on the Zetec for some better ones before I put it in
the car (I'm doing a full rebuild so it makes sense to do it now!).....my original plans were to:
- skim the head to raise compression a fraction and level it up (how much do I take off?)
- New oil and water pumps
- Fit some new/newer standard 2L cams
- new followers
- new piston rings
- new conrod bolts (arp)
- new flywheel bolts (arp) - 8mm or 9mm???
- new cylinder head bolts (standard or arp?)
- new core plugs (needed?)
I'm also going to lighten and balance the flywheel, crank, rods and pistons....Going dow the list and bearing in mind I'm doing a full
rebuild anyway what would people say are the essentials and what upgrades will make the most difference?? I was also thinking of steel conrods and
pistons etc but too pricey!) I don't want to go mad because I can't afford it but at the same time I don't want to regret not doing
something in 6 months time! Is there anything else I should look at doing eg bigger valves or 3 angle valve seats??? Its a 2L zetec, running on bike
throttle bodies and megasquirt btw. Just looking for a bit of basic tuning advice when it comes to the zetec! Cheers Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 15/12/06 at 08:43 PM |
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bin it and fit a vauxhall!!!
sorry, couldn't resist!
only really critical fasteners are the rod bolts. Worth getting the head stud kit if you plan to have the head on and off a few times (which tends to
happen when you start tuning! ) as the cost of replacing the std ones each time starts to go up.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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paulf
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| posted on 15/12/06 at 09:35 PM |
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Why not just treat it to a coat of paint and put it in ? . A standard engine is going to give 160bhp plus and if that is still not enough then get
another one and uprate it. They are cheap to buy but you can spend a lot of money stripping it just to put it all back together. Ask big wasa im sure
he went down that route and spent a lot of money.Remember these engines will last a lot longer than an old pinto or crossflow as they are made to much
better tolerances initially.
If your changing the sump then ARP rod bolts would be worthwhile.
It easy to swap the head and cams later with the engine in the car.
Paul.
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oliwb
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 09:00 AM |
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I've got it mostly in bits anyway. Half of the reason for wanting to swap the engine was to gain some experience rebuilding a 16v. I've
never done it before so fancied giving it a try. The sump is off and needs to be cut n' shut so I'm going to change the big end shells
and also the piston rings (I've never seen the engine run so want to give it a proper going over!) In which case might as well ARP the rod
bolts and balance the conrods and pistons (DIY style with a set of scales). Flywheel is going to be lightened (but again DIY on lathe) Bent a set of
Ford flywheel bolts on my pinto so don't want to stick with the standard ones and ARP seem cheapish.....would like to skim the head just to be
sure its flat but might as well try to raise compression a bit, no?? And figured new standard cams would give it a better fighting chance of making
the 160bhp but might not be worth it in honesty. Was going to change the oil pump as a matter of course and also the water pump as it spins the wrong
way anyway.
Am I being silly though? Is it really not worth it? I want the satisfaction and experience of rebuilding it all (as much of it as I can) but then as
you say I paid £50 for it and can easily go get another one whenever I fancy......hmmmm Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 09:12 AM |
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Put another £10 on the list.
If you're changing the rings treat yourself to a glaze buster or it'll smoke like Marlborough man. Don't go too rough or too long or
it'll be a diy rebore.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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oliwb
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 09:22 AM |
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Can anyone tell me if these are standard or uprated???
says OEM but they look different (maybe just cleaner!) Oli.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330059674036&rd=1&rd=1
/>
[Edited on 16/12/06 by oliwb]
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 09:57 AM |
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ISTR that ARP rod bolts on the Zetec need the caps to be machined (holes chamferred) to tighten properly.
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MikeR
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 10:09 AM |
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daft question - what are you going to be doing with the engine?
racing, track days, showing nova's a clean pair of heals or pootling around town?
I've never rebuilt an engine but, if its not going to see the track at all, i'd just do the bear minimum, if its occasional track days
uprate the bolts etc, lots of track / race then start spending lots of money 
Oh, i'd also be VERY careful about lightening anything by your self, especially the flywheel. If you get it wrong just think where your feet are
in relation to it. The 1.8 zetec flywheel is lighter than the 2.0.
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oliwb
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 11:09 AM |
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I'm planning on using the engine for road use. Might do the odd track day as well. I'm regretting not putting better rod bolts in the
pinto though cos its just getting going when the rev limiter kicks in (6.5Krpm). I intend to spend as little as possible but want:
- as much experience as possible at doing everything, and
- as close to the original spec 160 bhp as possible
I'm going to use a 1.6 or 1.8 flywheel and skim it and take a bit of weight off it on the lathe.....I know ppl wont agree but to be honest you
can't really go wrong so long as you don't take too much material off it! I'm looking into having the crank and flywheel
dynamically balanced anyway. At the moment I just want a road engine but I'd like to be able to add bits and bobs easily in case I change my
mind in 6 months eg cams etc.
I take it there's not really anything that is absolutely necessary then as an upgrade? Cheers Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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MikeR
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 11:12 AM |
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Don't ask me - as i said, i'm no expert. Also, i was under the impression, zetec with decent inlet and exhaust was closer to 150 than 160.
Just don't want you disappointed.
Why not fit this engine 'as is' and get a second engine to strip, rebuild, play with etc.
that way you've got a spare, something to look forward too & you can get on with enjoying the car.
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oliwb
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| posted on 16/12/06 at 06:10 PM |
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Cars already on the road and registered etc etc with a pinto on megajolt and bike carbs, hence not too worried about a quick job! I agree I always
thought 150ish was nearer the mark! I'll be gutted though if its on the dyno and can't even make its standard output! Would be great to
get a bit more with the throttle bodies, exhaust etc etc.....Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 19/12/06 at 04:37 PM |
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Oli
My Tiger Cat with a 1.8l Zetec 2.0l cams gave 149.8 bhp with home made throttle bodies and an Emerald ECU. The cams were the only thing I did change
and the engine was brand new with only the mileage from my house to Emerald for the RR session (about 60 miles) so you should get this with no
problem.
I had a 2.0l flywheel (my engine came without a flywheel and got this one free) lightened, balanced and modified to take a Pinto clutch, by Scholar,
the metal was not just turned off on a lathe, it had pockets milled out of it, remember that if you skim the clutch face or the mounting face you will
be moving the clutch further from the gearbox.
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fellowes
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| posted on 21/12/06 at 02:06 AM |
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I have a 2004 zetec 2.0L. I had a 3 angle valve job with some porting on the cylinder head. Took appox .020 inches off(or .025 cannot remember),
which took the compression to around 10.5:1. I have a raceline steel flywheel, with Yamaha R1 carbs using megajolt. I left the bottom end stock and
only used the ARP bolts for the flywheel (raceline told be the std bolts are good if you keep it under 7200 rpm). Dyno the unit and it was putting
out around 18 horse. Engine sounds sweet with the bike carbs...and pulls great
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DIY Si
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| posted on 21/12/06 at 09:38 AM |
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quote:
Dyno the unit and it was putting out around 18 horse. Engine sounds sweet with the bike carbs...and pulls great
18 horse??!! Are you sure? Blimey, even an old boat anchor will do better than that!  
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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