Andrew Beattie
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 06:45 PM |
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4age cooling
I'm coming to the plumbing stage of my 4age installation and have a few questions.
This is the haynes diagram, sorry not very clear.
Is there any point in the pipe I have highlighted red? If not things would be easier as I could bend the green pipe as shown and have a pipe straight
from the radiator through a thermostat to it.
Where should I route the blue one?
Are the pipes to the throttle body needed? ( I have a cut down toyota inlet and TB)
Any suggestions would be very much apprieciated.
Thanks
Andrew
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 06:59 PM |
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If the stat stops the water in the green pipe you'll have no circulation round the block when it's shut. If it doesn't there will be
nothing to make the water go through the radiator.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Andrew Beattie
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 07:38 PM |
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Thanks for the reply, I see now that getting rid of the red pipe stops circulation when stat is closed. I was also wondering where people have put the
header tank into the system?
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blockhead_rich
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 08:37 PM |
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Andrew, where abouts are you located?
I've got a 4age in my Velocity and I can take some pic's for you but not until the weekend I'm afraid. I used a thermostat and had
loads of overheating problems that went away as soon as I removed it!
But it was all fairly straight forward.
Rich
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shades
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 08:52 PM |
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Im at the same stage and a bit lost too...
Rich, Stupid question but does that mean I dont need the thermostat?
[Edited on 9/1/07 by shades]
Thanks
Adrian
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 9/1/07 at 10:18 PM |
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i would use the thermostat, i used the original housing, but turned the pipe around so the bend would be sharper, look in my picture archive may be
clearer there, i also cut the small bore pipe which you asked did you need. i done it this way to keep it as standard as possible so the water would
flow corectly.
hope you understand what im saying as it hard to explain
thanks
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Andrew Beattie
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| posted on 10/1/07 at 11:50 AM |
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Thanks for all the replies. I think I've now got my head round it. Pointing the radiator return in the other direction as you said seems to
solve a lot of problems.
The only thing I'm still unsure about is what will happen if the pipes to the throttle body are missed out, which will happen if I cut down the
two soild tubes.
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Peteff
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| posted on 10/1/07 at 12:16 PM |
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It will probably run better without a heater on the TBs, cold air is better for fueling. If the pipes are flowing water they will just need connecting
together or blanking off. Have a look on Billzilla to see if he has any useful stuff.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Andrew Beattie
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| posted on 10/1/07 at 01:58 PM |
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Thanks for the link he says, "At the bottom of the throttle body is a wax pellet type of 'cold idle up', and it has engine water
running through it so that when the water is cold the device lets an additional amount of air pass into the inlet manifold to keep the idle speed
normal. As the water and wax warms up, the device passes less and less air, until the engine is fully warm. They tend to be a bit unreliable when they
get old, and often need replacement."
I'll see how I get on without it for now I think.
Andrew
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blockhead_rich
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| posted on 10/1/07 at 07:12 PM |
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Well, originally I followed what Raw said they did but my engine temp seemed way to high back in August so I removed the thermostat and haven't
had a problem since but car will be back to the rolling road in the Spring when I get it back on the road following a small break for the few jobs I
have planned.
I used a VAG header (the round type) which seems to work OK and plumbed into the top rad hose / rad fan temp' sensor housing that I made up.
I couldn't use the original Toyota thermostat housing, etc as my engine didn't come with it!
Rich
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Pete Jordan
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 11:16 AM |
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You can get an inline three way thermostat and housing that will work that comes from the Rover SD1 2000cc model. rimmer Brothers still do it
here and want about £19 for it. In my
4AGE installation I'm going to use the main block connection for to and from the radiator and will probably use the other connections/tee off
the main lines to supply the mini heater I'm fitting. Hope that helps.
Pete
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