flak monkey
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| posted on 28/3/09 at 09:35 PM |
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Idle advance should be more than that I would have though. More like 8-10 deg?
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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cloudy
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| posted on 28/3/09 at 09:55 PM |
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I've just read the manual - dyna2000 runs 15 degrees at idle, ramping it up as you approach 2000 rpm to the full 40 degrees...
james
www.warnercars.com
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 28/3/09 at 10:00 PM |
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If there's a leak in 2 and 3 then maybe fixing that will bring both sides down.
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 08:51 AM |
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Hmmm..
At my SVA at Exeter last month, the examiner tested for HC's at nearer 2000rpm.
He explained that as a bike engine has no fly wheel, it relies on a relatively rich mixture (and higher revs) at idle to ensure the engine runs
smoothly. This can lead to higher HC's and so he increased the revs slightly to see if the HC's significantly dropped (which they did).
He was happy that the bike engine was behaving as it had been designed to do and gave it a pass. Mind you, Byron at Exeter is a very reasonable guy.)
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 10:15 AM |
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What were your various readings? (and at what rpms)
www.warnercars.com
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 03:12 PM |
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I give up with the bloody car, still no better - got right hand side down to 400 went to tweak the left and got it to 900 came back to the left and it
was at 2200 !!
No idea what to do now, I can't afford to take it to a tuning company, and I feel its a waste as it's on the SVA exhausts...
James
www.warnercars.com
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 03:16 PM |
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Just dug out the emissions slip from the test. Unfortunately all it states is that at idle speed CO was 1.42 and HC was 413. Which was a pass on both
counts. (pre-95 blade engine and so within parameters of CO 3.5% max and 1200 HC)
However, I do recall HC's being much nearer the 1200 limit at true idle (approx 1100 rpm,) so I think he's just used 2000rpm as the idle
speed for purposes of the test!
Have you tried taking a HC reading at 2000 rpm to see if it significantly drops?
[Edited on 29/3/09 by andrew.carwithen]
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 03:19 PM |
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If i raise the idle to 2000 the HC's go through the roof to 2000 so that's not even an option...
I wouldn't definately say as the engine warms up it gets worse, at 50-80 degrees water temp its fine, but as it seeks about 90-100 on fan its
high....
James
[Edited on 29/3/09 by cloudy]
www.warnercars.com
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 03:50 PM |
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Just a few thoughts and probably 'teaching granny to suck eggs' so bear with me....
When you balanced the carbs, did you have to remove a blanking plug/screw from each carb in turn first to enable you to attach the carb balancer?
(and replaced them afterwards, obviously!)
Just thinking if they were possibly missing, then you'd be sucking in air and consequently running lean..
I don't know how the Suzuki carbs compare to 'blade in terms of setting up, but on the blade, one of the carbs has a spigot which is
blanked off with a removeable cap and the other three have blanking screws.
The carb with the spigot is the datum carb and the other three carbs are balanced to this one. Once set, then idle speed is re-set using the adjuster
under the carbs.
Have you had the carbs apart, at all?
Are float heights all ok? Are the jets and needles of uniform size and set correctly?
I'm assuming the carbs are of the CV type and hence are the diaphragms in the carb tops all serviceable/not split etc?
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 04:18 PM |
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I HATE IT I HATE IT I HATE IT
Wish I hadn't started, another few hours out there and nothing to show but burnt hands and even worse results
I really am at a loss now, I can't afford a new engine and I can't find any problems with this one I don't even have anything left
to try.
www.warnercars.com
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 04:20 PM |
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Yes all replaced, the problem is nothing stays equal, you can fiddle and get it right at 400-900 and then the next reading is 3000 there's no
rhyme or reason to it...
www.warnercars.com
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 05:36 PM |
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Can you afford to get it stripped and rebuilt?
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 06:44 PM |
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YEEEEESSSSS
Swapped out the coil packs and managed to get a stable 1000 on the right and 400 on the left - but only when the lights are on!
It'll be pure luck if it goes through the SVA....
James
www.warnercars.com
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 08:32 PM |
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Well just tested again in case it was a fluke, and still getting 1000-1200 each side from lukewarm. I'm really hoping a good blat to SVA will
give me a little bit to play with... It's all so up and down I wouldn't be surprised if I get there and its 3000 again though 
James
www.warnercars.com
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 08:39 PM |
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This is why I'm thinking of stripping it down, or at least all the parts that would affect the figures. That way you can put them all back
together and make sure they're working properly.
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cloudy
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 08:51 PM |
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There are only 3 things left really,
It must be being brought up artifically, i've defintately got it to the "sweet" spot CO about 2 - 2.5% both sides which I think is
about right..
That leaves
Leaking valve stems
leaking/burnt exhaust seats
Oil+Piston Rings
All three are beyond my current skill level ,budget and time but if I can't get it through on tuesday i'll have to start looking into
it...
Kames
www.warnercars.com
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