liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 07:42 PM |
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k-series temp in tin top
as soon as i start the engine the temp gauge makes its way quickly to super top max temp. up until today it never went past around %30
It isn't loosing water, all the hoses are hot and it runs like a dream
suspect dodgy temp sender any other ideas?
[Edited on 17/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]
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Mark G
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 07:59 PM |
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What ever the symptoms on a K series you can always be sure of the same fault.
Headgasket!
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 08:02 PM |
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how could a head gasket failure cause max temps in the water within 5 seconds of startup?
think how long a kettle takes to boil a litre of water,
Plus I completely overhauled the head 15000 miles ago.
EDIT just re read my post and it sounds really rude it wasn't meant that way, sorry
[Edited on 17/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 08:58 PM |
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If you have no water loss or no signs of excessive emulsion under the oil filler cap it isn't the head gasket.
Early Rovers have two temperature sensors --- one for the instrument panel and one for the ECU later engines have only one the gauge is driven by the
MEMS ECU these black ones are under a tenner new off the web..
If the coolant drops and the system airlocks the temperature sensor usually dosen't read an elevated temperature until the engine is
boiling.
However two things occur first either the heater will stop working or you will hear noticable pinking when the engines is pulling from about 1500
rpm
You can sanity check the gauge reading by taking the temperature of the coolant bleed that runs from the cam belt end of inlet manifold to the header
tank -- normally when the engine is fully warmed up expect this to be very ho t --- 95c or so.
You can bleed the colant system by removing the 8mm headed screw in the 32mm metal coolant pipe (some models it is hose) that runs over the top of the
bellhousing.
If the temperature sensor is OK mMy betting however would be the thermostat
Two different types of thermostat are fitted the very late cars have an external thermostats which were also retro fitted by some dealers.
The standard thermostat is a swine to change it is located in the rear of the water pump.
If changing the standard stat either drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the valve plate or if you intend to keep the car for a couple of years .
fit the modded externat PRT thermostat
You should also check the fan isn't running continuously .
[Edited on 17/2/09 by britishtrident]
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Gary 7
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 09:11 PM |
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It sounds like a duff temp sensor to me,try another, failing that check the wiring to the sensor could be a damaged wire.If that is all ok has to be
the gauge.If the engine is cold and the gauge says hot its electrical.
[Edited on 17/2/09 by Gary 7]
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 09:20 PM |
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brilliant info trident,
FYI
its an early P reg jelly mould 216
Heater works fine, no emulsion, will check if the fan is running continuously tomorrow along with the temp test.
can you tell me more about the modded external PRT thermostat. I'm not familiar
Thank you
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stevec
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 09:46 PM |
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If you do end up needing a stat, I have a new one complete with housing, Free. Just pay the postage.
K series engines Rock. Light powerful and much wrongly slagged off.
Steve.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 10:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey
can you tell me more about the modded external PRT thermostat. I'm not familiar
Thank you
The PRT would never have been fitted as standard to the 200 series, it was introduced originally on the Freelander and MG TF (I think). It can be
retro-fitted to earlier cars however.
A PRT opens on both temperature and water pressure, so if you rev the engine high enough when cold the thermostat will open to allow some coolant flow
which prevents hot spots forming in areas of otherwise stagnant coolant.
More detail here.
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 10:42 PM |
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thanks for the help chaps
k series are awesome
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