Metal Hippy™
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 posted on 26/7/02 at 02:33 AM |
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Here's a question for you all to argue about....
I'm after peoples opinions on something.
As in our build we are using a big block BMW straight 6 (3.5) space at the front will be at a premium.
So the idea put to me and I'm relaying to you all is this...
Put the radiator at the back and lead the pipes from the engine (obviously).
As the chassis is going to be totally redimensioned to make the engine fit well and optimise the weight distribution as much as possible with that
engine, accomodating a rear mounted radiator shall be no problem.
Plus points thought of so far...
More air getting at the engine and air intake, more coolant in the system thanks to the extra pipe length and the ability to have a fair size of
radiator with the obvious advantage of more cooling area.
Disadvantages...
Heat and its proximity to the fuel tank. Heatshield/reflector of some kind?
Thoughts, observations and ideas welcome.
Cheers.
Rich.
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
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Simon
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| posted on 26/7/02 at 09:12 AM |
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Metal H
You could do what some of the bike manufacturers have done, and run your cooling fluid down your frame rails (they'll need insulating). That would
save the hassle of extra pipework.
I could be wrong, but I wouldn't have thought a remote radiator would generate a vast amount of heat - others please confirm or otherwise.
Assuming you are going to put radiator in the boot, your rear panel will need to be completely louvred (air out), you will also need to get air in.
Could be mounted flat - as in false floor.
Just my thoughts
ATB
Simon
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 26/7/02 at 09:17 AM |
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The Hillman Imp kinda did something similar, in a fashion.
The imp had a rear engine with the rad underslung at the rear with a scoop.
It also had long pipes going to the front of the car to feed the heater matrix.
Picking holes in your idea, constructively of course :
1. water is heavy. Basically 1 kilo per 10cm square cube. guessing cos im too lazy, thats gotta be around 1 kilo of water per 300mm of average hose.
thats gonna add a bit of extra weight.
2. might be hard to bleed air from.
3. volume of water isnt really related to cooling - its heat in, vs heat lost at the rad, which is a function of air flow and area. DONT UNDERESTMATE
THE HEAT YOU NEED TO GET RID OF. The beemer will have a big rad for a reason.
4. how you gonna get air at the back of the car? Most cars generate negative pressure under the car, unless you wanna take off, so the imp kinda
underslung idea wont get you a lotta air to cool a 3.5 litre engine. then the car runs so low to the ground, you wont get any appreciable scooped air
in. F1 style side scoops might look odd?
A suggestion :
On my car at least, there is quite a gap between the front of the engine and the front of the chassis. (see the pics on TOL or ask me if you wanna
see). Its a 2.4 L V6 cologne. On my car its needed to swing the engine in and out.
However, if you can stand the thought of a bit of your lump overhanging the axle line, then why not devise a way of making it fit using all available
space, and have the front in some way be detatchable to allow the engine out?
In fact, as the rad fits on the front, its not the rad thats the problem - it dont take up engine bay space - its the length of your engine and
fitting in the bay thats the problem - so the removable front might be the way?????
Or use a bike engine to get the same bhp / tonne..........
atb
steve
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 26/7/02 at 03:05 PM |
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you know my thoughts, stick in in back.... 
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ChrisW
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| posted on 26/7/02 at 03:31 PM |
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Take all dimensions on the chassis, double them and weld it all together? That should give u enough space... just!
Chris
My gaff my rules
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johnston
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| posted on 26/7/02 at 09:22 PM |
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I am reminded of a car that was n classis ford a while bac it was a anglia wit 4wd scooby stuff in it he had the rad in the back with the floor cut
wit the naca style ducts in it too let the air up to the rad
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marcjagman
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| posted on 2/8/02 at 08:52 AM |
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I am assuming the chassis will be longer and the engine set a fair way back, so way not put the radiator in the front where it can get lots of fresh?
air by putting it at an angle in the available space OR fit TWO mini radiators.
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johnston
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| posted on 2/8/02 at 05:18 PM |
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why not do sumthin diff and go f1 style and put them out the sides 
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Metal Hippy™
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| posted on 2/8/02 at 07:10 PM |
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I've had that suggested.
One problem though...
There's a fair chance it'll look entirely shit.
Maybe it won't, but there's a fair chance it will.
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
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johnston
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| posted on 2/8/02 at 08:03 PM |
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ack well at least itll b different and if the front wheel kicks up a stone it'll mayb hole a rad and melt ur nazis built engine
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Metal Hippy™
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 posted on 2/8/02 at 08:13 PM |
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Knackers to that
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
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escary
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| posted on 4/8/02 at 07:14 PM |
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cooling system with rear mounted rad not unlike most modern buses these use hydraulic fan drives at the rear and out of 12 in the fleet I maintain
they all overheat(crap system) side mounted radiators are better.But if you must fit a rear radiator, how about in the centre of the roll bar? it'll
keep year neck warm and act as a parachute at the same time!
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johnston
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| posted on 4/8/02 at 10:43 PM |
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is cost an option???? look at some of the companys makin them outta alloy may b somethin with 4 rows ask them wot they think ud need and weather it
would be possible in the area available at the front.
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Metal Hippy™
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| posted on 4/8/02 at 11:57 PM |
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As I said before, as the chassis is going to be almost completely redimensioned around the BMW engine to help maintain proportions of the car. So
it'll be slightly bigger all round...
Cost IS a factor and so if we can't get enough air into and indeed out of the back of it again we'll put it out at the front. There should be enough
width with the extra size in the chassis for the radiator off the donor.
Mind you, there's an oil cooler to think about too....
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 5/8/02 at 08:15 AM |
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watch out how much bigger you make it.
I made my car about 6 ins wider, tapering to 4 in the bonnet area. Its also 6 ins longer.
As a result, my car looks no where near as dinky as a std locost - that extra bit of size might not give you the right 'look' of you go too big. Not
a problem on my car tho...
atb
steve
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 8/8/02 at 12:08 PM |
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If you make your chassis wider at the front what nosecone will you use? As a guide a standard nose cone with 4" extra width and 2" extra height I
can fit, at an angle, a standard Lancia Thema rad. Dimensions to follow.
Also to keep things in proportion how about fitting a set of Luego's wide wishbones! They are 2.5" wider each side and fit into the standard mounts
on the "Book" chassis and should get nearer to the width of the rear wheelbase if you use a Sierra IRS.
Nick
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 8/8/02 at 07:15 PM |
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Thats the interesting bit.
as my car is gonna look like a morgan, i have to make the whole front. Its not impossible if you make up a former and spend the time on it.
Alans site on his Meertcat car shows what you can do with time patience and innovation.
There ya go Alan, a nice compliment!
atb
steve
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johnston
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| posted on 8/8/02 at 08:35 PM |
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was thinkin bout this 2 daymight be bull poo but anyway !!!!!
wot about gettin to rads mounting them bac to bac with a blower fan at the front and a sucker #(ooohhh errr missus) at the back.
plumbing it in might be awkward but a bit of latiral thinkin might do it ???
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Alan B
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| posted on 9/8/02 at 12:55 AM |
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quote:
Alans site on his Meertcat car shows what you can do with time patience and innovation.
There ya go Alan, a nice compliment!
atb
steve
And very much appreciated it is too
Cheers Steve
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