Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:18 PM |
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Gear stick mods
Hi all.
How easy is it to bend the standard type 9 gear lever? I've just sorted the engine and it's mounts and I think that the gear stick may
well hit the dash in 1st, 3rd, 5th and reverse. I know there are several ways to mod the stick with a remote but:
a. I don't have a lathe
b. I need Locost 
Ideas?
JB
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:20 PM |
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hmmm its not easy... you say you want to bend it coz it hits the dash? so you want it bent further back? see just above the bend there's a
rubber vibration damper thingy, its easy to sorten it to there* if that would do you? granted it is very short though its like changing gear with a
toggle switch, just how i like it
* free!
[Edited on 9/6/09 by blakep82]
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Benzine
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:23 PM |
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Mine originally hit the dashboard. I bent mine back a touch by using a small blowtorch. Took about 5 mins to get it hot enough (glowing red in the
middle), I had it wedged between some big bricks and I bent it with some mole grips
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:24 PM |
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^ ah, i tried doing mine cold 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Benzine
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:30 PM |
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lol, yeah that'd be tough 
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:31 PM |
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and my vice wasn't bolted to the table.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:40 PM |
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My Dad bent his stick in his MK locost. Works well. I say try it. If it isnt to your liking you can always get another and fit remote kit.
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rayward
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:50 PM |
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you could fit a quickshift kit, which are pretty cheap and will reduce the throw of the gearlever?
Ray
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stevegough
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:51 PM |
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Someone asked a very similar question under tools and techniques last week - have a read - there is a link to another thread in it - lots of good
advice for you.
HTH, Steve. 
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Humbug
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 02:53 PM |
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I removed the top part (including the rubber bit) then stuck a metal tube on top of the stump. Filled it with a bit of studding to make it more solid
and then put on a knob of my choice (oo-er!). All fixed together with Araldite Steel. Mind you, my engine is positioned as far back as it will go
without the bellhousing or clutch arm actually touching the bulkhead, so the gear stick is not too far under the dash in the first place.
[Edited on 09.06.2009 by Humbug]
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gavin174
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 04:18 PM |
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i fitted a remote gearlever and then cut and shut the existing gearlever to move it even further back...
http://www.essexkitcarclub.com
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 04:56 PM |
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you can see in this photo how small my knob is (fnar fnar)
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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bob
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 06:00 PM |
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This what i did
I must firstly appologise for stealing this from dave andrews excellent site.
Making a Quickshift
Fed up with bashing your knuckles on the dashboard of your kit car, or with knocking your elbow on the handbrake? Do you render your passenger
unconscious every time you select reverse - you need a quickshift! . But hold on, are you not keen to pay 25-70 pounds for a quickshift? Why not make
your own.
Materials required
3 M10 nuts (not nylocks) as spacers (7mm thick)
3 M8 x 25mm bolts
Use of a vice, or two blocks of wood/bricks
A small amount of araldite or car body filler
A quickshift for the Ford 4 and 5 speed boxes works by moving the fulcrum point of the gear lever upwards, thereby decreasing the lever advantage of
the lever and therefore shortening its throw. Inevitably this means that the lever action will be heavier than standard, so be prepared to accept
this. The quickshift kits that you can buy for 25-30 pounds simply adapt the standard lever, but in my opinion, they move the fulcrum too high and
ruin the quality of the change, which with Ford gearboxes is usually very good. First off there is nothing intrinsically wrong with the standard gear
lever unless the rubber mount is knackered. If it is, throw it away and get another lever from a scrapyard (mine cost £2).
To convert the standard gear lever you must first remove it and clean it with a degreaser such as Jizer, so that all the working surfaces are clean,
any build up of grease, or other shite must be removed. Test the motion of the gearlever when removed and cleaned through every plane to ensure that
it is smooth and easy. If it is not then investigate why, it may be that the ball joint is pitted, scratched or damaged, if it is then obtain an
undamaged one from a scrapyard. The way the lever is converted is to move the plastic sphere which acts as a ball joint 7mm or so further up the
lever, and to space the lever attachment flange by the same amount. This should shorten the throw of the lever by about 25 percent.
To modify the lever, place the lever with the linkage downwards on the top of a vice with the linkage between the jaws and with the bottom of the
plastic sphere resting on the jaws of the vice either side. The jaws of the vice need to be 20-25mm apart. Ensure that the sphere is level on the jaws
(the lever will be angled as it is when the lever is in neutral). Tap down on the top of the lever smartly. This should drive the lever down through
the ball joint; keep tapping until the sphere has moved by about 7mm. If you go too far, turn the lever upside down, open the jaws of the vice and
place the mount flange on the jaws with the lever down between them, tap gently until the position is restored.
When this is done, using the 3 M10 nuts as spacers (and longer m8 bolts!) re-attach the lever to the gearbox mounting and try the gearchange. It may
be stiff into the reverse gate or across the normal gate; this is because moving the fulcrum has also put increased tension on the rubber spring. To
release this tension, simply trim about 5mm from the top of the rubber spring where it meets the retaining collar at the top of the lever ball joint.
Standard Gearlever before modification
If you have difficulty engaging gears following modification then it is likely that the distance the sphere has moved on the lever is different from
the distance spaced at the flange, so check this is OK. If reverse has no distinct 'gate' then it is likely that the spacing between the
flanges is not enough, or the sphere has been pushed too far up the lever. If on the other hand reverse is very difficult to engage even after
trimming the spring then either the spacing is too great or the sphere has not been pushed up the lever enough. If the lever action is still too long,
the sphere may be moved further up the lever provided that the amount moved matches the thickness of the spacers used between the flange on the
gearbox and the flange on the lever.
When you are happy with the gearchange, use Araldite or similar to fill the gap in the underside of the lever between the sphere and the lever, ensure
that the surfaces are clean before applying. When the lever is perfect, lubricate the metal part of the linkage with moly grease, and the plastic ball
joint with a small dab of grease or EP90 gearbox oil, make sure it is properly lubricated, including under the plastic shield below the rubber spring.
Gearlever After Modification
Voila - no more bruised knuckles or unconscious passengers! If experience of using the gearchange shows that it still has too much movement or not
enough then the ball joint and spacing can be varied too suit.
Approximate cost - less than 1 pound.
Dave Andrews
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bob
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 06:04 PM |
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Sorry didnt copy and paste the drawings one sweep so here is the link.
Gear mod linky
[Edited on 9/6/09 by bob]
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