omega0684
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 11:45 AM |
|
|
estimated rebuild cost
can any of you give me a rough estimation of the cost of a full rebuild of an alfa v6 engine?
im trying to decide whether its going to be worth buying a used engine and rebuild it (this could possibly incur reliability issues) or buy a
professionally rebuild engine which i reckon will cosy me about £1250-1500.
estimated used engine cost i reckon will be about £250
a bit vague i know but looking for rough figures
cheers
[Edited on 26/7/09 by omega0684]
|
|
|
|
|
tomgregory2000
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 11:48 AM |
|
|
you could buy a lot of engines for £1500
just chuck an engine in, use it till it blows up and then drop another one in
Thats what i would do
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 11:51 AM |
|
|
My opinion is its not worth rebuilding a modern engine.
Buy a runner with service history, clean it and service it and away you go. If you get a dud buy another.
[Edited on 28/7/09 by big_wasa]
|
|
|
omega0684
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 11:55 AM |
|
|
the car i thinking of building i would be using as my daily runner so i want reliability!
i was even thinking about fitting a diesel! (shiver)
[Edited on 26/7/09 by omega0684]
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 11:59 AM |
|
|
my ecotec cost about £350 in parts, so maybe £500-600 for you V6? inc a bit extra for alfa parts. plus labour
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
tomprescott
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 12:00 PM |
|
|
I agree with Big Wasa, unless you have a rare engine it's not worth the cost of a rebuild. You'll be best off buying lots of cheap banger
engines or maybe even the new blacktop zetecs that are on ebay for around £600, something like that?
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 12:41 PM |
|
|
All prices approximate
Regrind of crank = £15/journal = could be max of £630 min £105 then add cost of bearings.
re-bore about £15/bore = £90
Pistons - allow £80each (but could be a lot more) = £480.
Re-work cylider heads, probably about £500/head
Factor in gasket sets, water pump, oil pump, and any other sundries. This would bring your price to about £2500, THEN you have to assemble it all and
you get no warranty.
I think its a bit of a no brainer.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
|
|
|
omega0684
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 12:47 PM |
|
|
debating going 2.5 V6 duratec at the moment, engines seem to be a lot cheaper, i think the alfa badge is adding £200 at least to the cost of a used
engine! 
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 01:02 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
i think the alfa badge is adding £200 at least to the cost of a used engine!
Ya. theres probably better engines anyway. theres probably more tuning bits around for ford engines than there is for alfa engines anyway,
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
Volvorsport
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 03:44 PM |
|
|
£1500 for a v6 would be a very cheap rebuild , even if it was a ford engine .
come on you know you want a 5 pot !!
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
|
|
|
Stuart_B
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
i have seen at least 2 2.5 v6 duartec engines go for about £50, whilst i have been looking for a 2.0, shame the 2.5 will not fit.lol
stuart
black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.
|
|
|
ss1turbo
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 07:41 PM |
|
|
Whatever the engine, you can buy a stock of s/h ones for the price of a rebuild - more relevant for modern engines where they're (almost) pence
each due to the quantities made.
Think about it...if you 10k a year and a s/h engine lasts 20k - thats 2 years motoring for a couple hundred quid...most modern engines will hit 200k
without any real issues if they've treated OK. We're no longer in the "100k and its dead" world back in the days on A series,
crossflows and Pintos.
IMHO, make anything you need transferrable easily (not sure i'd go so far as quick release enigne mounts) - with a bit of forward thinking, an
engine swap could be an "easy" day job. If you need to do it every couple of years, is it a major headache? You're building a
whole car from scratch at the end of the day!
Long live RWD...
|
|
|
Trev Borg
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
Owelly and I bought three alfa 164's. the first i think was £150, the second about £140, and the last £42.
With bits we sold on fleabay, and the scrap for the cars, the engines were free.
Keep buying engine, and throw any away you no longer have ause for 
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
By that time, who cares.
You're a mile away, and you've got his shoes
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 26/7/09 at 09:50 PM |
|
|
why on earth bother rebuilding it???????????????
Just buy a good one to start with!!!
I think you mentioned rebuilding the engine in the capri 2.8i that we restored.
To give you an example of why this is unnecessary.........
I bought a 1991 Vauxhall XE 2.0 16v engine in 1996, with around 30,000 miles on the clock. I put it in an opel manta and ran it as my daily driver, on
throttle bodies, rolling road tested at just over 200hp at the flywheel, until 1999. Then I fitted it to my RWD pug 205 rally car and used that in
competition for 2 years. Then I fitted it with a set of new big end bearings and put it into my class 9 autograss car and raced that for 4 years,
winning 2 championships in the process. In 2007 I dismantled the grasser to build my new twin bike engine one, and sold the engine for exactly what I
paid for it in 1996.
I knew the guy I sold it to, and he then used it in an autograss car for a year's racing, then fitted it to a se7en and used it on the road for
a year, and it is now in another autograss car.
Since 1996 it has revved more than 1500rpm more than the factory rev limiter was set at, mainly in competition, where in my case due to gearing it sat
on the limiter for most of each race. According to the guy I sold it to, who I met at a meeting a couple of months ago, its still going strong now,
and has had one more big end bearing set in it but no other work whatsoever.
If you maintain a modern engine properly and treat it correctly in terms or warmup etc, they go on forever.
rebuilds are just not worth it. Just buy a head set, then pull the heads and check it over. If the bores are ok then stick the heads back on, if not,
weigh it in and buy another one. Pull off a big end and see if it wants a set of shells in it, and that's about it.
[Edited on 26/7/09 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
.jpg)
